Jun 30, 2019

Map 8, Days 28 - 30: Umbagog to Rangeley

Trip Date: May 22 - 24, 2019
Miles: 44 miles (all of Map 8) in three days, two nights
Portages: 4

Paddling Partner: Sam Vainisi
Boat: Wenonah Minnesota II
Wildlife: Geese, osprey, bald eagle, deer and moose on the drive back to Errol
Weather: Sunny, but cool to cold and blustery with headwinds
Overnight: The Narrows between Lower and Upper Richardson Lakes and Echo Cove Campsite (across from Haines Landing and part of Cupsuptic Campground)

Overview

As often seems to be the case on these adventures--and maybe in part due to the dunking I took two days earlier (?)—I continued to fight a cough and cold I had brought with me from Wisconsin. After saying goodbye to Karrie and Russ, we had headed back to Errol where we had originally intended to camp for the night at Northern Outfitters. With temps still dipping in the 30s, I was able to talk Sam into supporting another local business, the Errol Motel.

The next morning, we crossed the street and arranged to have our car shuttled to Rangeley while our trailer was left at Northern Waters. The next two days were spent paddling all of Map 8 to our car which we had arranged to leave parked with permission at the Rangeley Congregational Church.

I had been looking to repaddling this section for two reasons: 
1) This is a gorgeous area of the trail and
2) I was very interested in reviewing my initial description of the Rapid River Carry which some paddlers using my thru-paddling guidebook had noted as inaccurate. I stated that it is not easily wheeled and, after this trip, am sticking with this assessment. The portage remains rocky and, in places difficult, but there are instances when wheeling could be managed. I saw no significant difference between 2011 and 2019 except that Louise Richardson Dick's "Forest Lodge" is now privately owned and the sign indicating that it was a National Historic Building has been removed.

We paddled this section during the week, just before Memorial Day and didn't need to reserve a site in advance. From what we could observe from the water, none of the sites were occupied and we didn't even see any other paddlers until we reached the Upper Dam carry on the second day, where we ran into another couple picking up the Rangeley Lake section of the NFCT. There were fishing boats out, but mostly closest to Haines Landing. 

Day One: 15 miles in 8 hours with two portages totaling 3.2 miles
The first day was cool, but sunny. After shuttling the car, we put in at Steamboat Landing around 9:30 a.m. and faced strong headwinds and rolling waves crossing Umbagog. Stopped for a bit of sustenance at the Cedar Stump campsites. The water levels are up--and this week's storm added to the volume of water flowing on the Rapid River. 

Took our time portaging the River Road Carry. It is not wheelable at the beginning where boardwalks and the forest floor demand you carry all your gear. We put the wheels on once we reached the old roadbed, persuading the cart to roll as best it could. We were traveling extremely light--just two days of food and gear in one big dry bag. Where standing water was present on the carry or the rocks were particularly cobbled, we lifted the canoe with the wheels still strapped on to maneuver over and around them. I agree that these obstacles would make wheeling quite maddening--up to two miles of madness--especially if solo. Or even if not. Pretty sure Sam and I did exchange one or two mad words with each other. We tend to MacGyver the straps and they do slip from time to time creating opportunities to work on our marital communication skills. So, do not expect a portage cart to perform well over this portage until you approach the seasonal camps. At this point wheeling—and pleasant conversation—becomes viable--at least it was for us. 

Snow was still present in the shadows. No black flies yet. There were a few mosquitos, but not enough for me to don any repellent. Sam, being the sweeter one, on the other hand, lathered up.

We put in at Pond-in-the-River, because I will almost always choose to be in the boat on water instead of carrying it. It was mid-afternoon by the time we set off to the take out on the north end of the Pond, where the water was high and some of the docks and rowboats submerged.

Another tramp of a half hour, wheelable until the cut-off trail, brought us to Middle Dam on Lower Richardson. After checking out the old dam that is under pressure to be "improved," we continued on to the Narrows paddling, where we stopped for the night. The wind had died down completely and we were treated to a symphony of loons. 

Heading upstream on the Androscoggin toward Umbagog

Just the like sign says

One of the Cedar Stump campsites 

Start of the Rapid River Carry

The carry as it follows the raging Rapid River. Not wheelable.

Data

Car is still there. River is high.

Wheelable!

The former National Historic site of "Forest Home" now privately owned.

Wheelable road especially if your partner carries the dry bag.

Put-in at Pond-in-the-River

Checking out Middle Dam

Narrows campsite on the Richardsons

Day Two: 15.5 miles in 6 hours with one short portage (carried)
Changes in weather were afoot. We started out under a cloudless sky and even got hot. At one point, we paddled through a doldrum as the wind decided it wanted to change. We witnessed the change from southerly to northerly while we were on the water. Took a midmorning break on the beach at Black Point (GORGEOUS campsite!). Encountered the only other paddlers we saw on this trip at the Upper Dam take-out on Upper Richardson Lake as the clouds continued to gather. 

I wanted to scout out Woodyard campsite on Mooselookmeguntic, as it is one of the lesser used sites on the lake. There's a good reason--its small and not very level. We ate out lunch here as the wind picked up. But the view, like all these lakeside sites on Map 8, are postcard perfect. This area is absolutely stunning. You can certainly paddle this section quickly, but I wish we could have stayed at more of the campsites longer. 

We hadn't had a specific plan about where we were going to end up that night--one option was to reach Rangeley where our car and a hot shower awaited. But as the wind continued to rise and the temperatures lower, and with the only camping option being Rangeley State Park after portaging through Oquassoc, we instead decided to hit one of the campsites closest to Haines Landing and stay put for the rest of the day. It was a long afternoon and a cold and rainy night.


The day started out sunny and almost hot.
Upper Richardson before the wind changed.

Breaktime at Black Point on Upper Richardson.

Old boat house near Upper Dam on Upper Richardson.

Still snow in them hills.

Upper Dam portage. Wheelable, but so short. We carried.

New Upper Dam. This is a change from 2011.

Mooselookmeguntic tricking us to think it will be smooth sailing.
Wind and waves in Echo Cove.
Day Three: 13.5 miles in 4 hours with one 1-mile wheelable portage
I ended up coughing a lot during the night. We packed up fast with the goal of reaching heat. And probably a visit to Rangeley Family Medicine. Too early to stop at the Gingerbread House for lunch on the portage through Oquassoc, we were back on the last lake heading for the car by 9:15. But the lake didn't make it easy. Even though we were now paddling due east, our old friend the wind, met up with us again. We weren't too sad to finally be done. Cough. Cough. Cough.

Rangeley Family Medicine had an opening mid-afternoon, so we stopped for lobster bisque at a restaurant Sam had discovered during the S. Branch Dead River excursion then headed back to the clinic for my bronchitis diagnosis. While there are doctors in Rangeley, there is no pharmacy--or least as of spring 2019. Even though it was another 30 minutes farther, Colebrook was more in the direction back toward Errol where Laurie Chandler was now waiting at Northern Waters. She is joining me for the next two days of paddling. Before long, she had a roaring fire going, I had some chips and salsa out and Sam was back with my antibiotics. 

Ready to roll through Oquassoc.

High water at Haines Landing, Mooselookmeguntic

Old NFCT marker at put-in on Rangeley Lake

The day before Memorial Day weekend and no one else is on the lake on this spring day.

Made it to Rangeley in time for lunch and a visit to see a doctor.

No other boats. Still cold. Still coughing.


Jun 27, 2019

Map 9, Days 26 - 27: S. Branch Dead River

Year Six: Repaddling the NFCT in Sections

Part 6: The S. Branch Dead River

Date: May 20-21, 2019
Total mileage this section this trip: Approximately 14 (out of 19 possible)
Paddling Partners: Russ Ford and Karrie Thomas
Boat(s): Dagger Dimension canoe with floatation; Karrie paddled a Prijon Pure kayak

Overview

Due to low water levels, I had missed paddling this waterbody in 2011, when I through-paddled the Northern Forest Canoe Trail. The only reason I was able to finally experience this section is due to the generosity of NFCT section-paddler, Russ Ford and the NFCT executive director, Karrie Thomas. Water was up—way up—and the entire river was able to be paddled. But without Russ and Karrie—and Russ's whitewater canoe—this water body most definitely exceeded my paddling skills and comfort level.

2011: A very dead S. Branch Dead River

Unlike 2011, 2019 has been an exceptionally wet spring throughout the midwest and northeast. As I traveled in mid-May, east to Maine across Ontario, rivers were still at flood stage. As of this report, more than a month later, river levels still remain above normal here in Wisconsin.

Leading up to the trip, Russ had us referencing the Spencer Stream USGS gauge as a means of anticipating the flow. See below for those details.

The first part of this year's weeklong section paddle was spread over Monday afternoon and Tuesday. The priority was to paddle the technical sections with the experts. This means we paddled above Langtown Mills Bridge and below Kennebago Bridge, skipping the unimpeded quick water between these two bridges. I'll pick up those five miles as part of my next section paddle when I return to continue north from Flagstaff Lake.

After meeting in Rangeley around noon on Monday, we set out after lunch to scout Fansanger Falls and the take-out and put-in options. Russ had run the gorge over a previous Memorial weekend with his son and another NFCT section-paddler, Chris Gill. On this trip, we also had plenty of water to run Fansanger Falls--sort of. You can read the full story in the trip report Karrie posted in the June 2019 NFCT blog "Voices From The Trail."

The South Branch of the Dead River is a beautiful stretch of the trail and I'm happy I was finally able to travel it. With or without enough water, however, it does present a dilemma for expedition through-paddlers. Without enough water, you may need to miss some or all of this entire trail section. With enough water, one cannot safely run Fansanger Falls while fully loaded. The available portage allows you to safely circumnavigate this stretch of whitewater, and even though the signed take-out has a nice short landing that leads to the road, it is tucked between two sets of short rapids and could be easily missed. My best advice is to check the Spencer Stream gauge, talk to the locals, trust your gut and to keep your eyes glued on river right for that portage signage (of course while navigating the rapids), if you do decide to paddle.

1.3 mile Fansanger Falls portage take-out (first one)
1.3 mile Fansanger Falls portage take-out leading to Hwy 16
Quill Road
Confidence arrow at the end of Quill Road to put-in
River access trail to put-in
Fansanger Falls Portage put-in (August 2016)

There is a second take-out option closer to the head of the gorge—and indeed just prior to that broad east-bearing turn leading the the Class III+ gorge. This one will be harder to catch if you don't know what you are looking for and the falls begins soon after.

Cherry Run and the Barn Doors section are the second set of formidable obstacles. While there is no established portage route, Russ was able to line the ledges (at times, almost waist-deep) and we successfully ran the last of the whitewater through the Barn Doors in the unburdened whitewater boats. The river was broader here and through-paddlers should be able to use available shoreline and floodplains helping to avoid running the most technical ledges and rapids. 

Outside of these specific areas, the river is still pushy and you'll be required to remain vigilant, notably between the Fansanger Falls portage put-it and Langtown Mills bridge and between Kennebago Bridge and the Barn Doors.

Map 9, Day 26: Monday, May 20

Lower Dallas Bridge to Langtown Mill Bridge

Miles Paddled: 5.2 miles in 1.75 hours with one recovery break
Portages: 0
Weather: 60s-low 70s, sunny and intermittent rain showers
Water temperature: 54 degrees.
Overnight: Rangeley State Park


Russ and his outfitted Dagger Dimension
Lower Dallas Bridge parking area put-in


Within the first two miles of Lower Dallas Bridge
River-wide downed tree (2019) prior to
Fansanger Falls Portage take-out
Still within the first two miles
Karrie scouting Langtown Mill Bridge takeout
Langtown Mills Bridge (take-out on
river right after passing under the bridge)
Looking upstream from 
the Langtown Mill Bridge
Same river/same view
during a scouting trip in August 2016

Map 9, Day 27: Tuesday, May 21, 2019
Kennebago Road Bridge to Flagstaff Lake Boat Launch/Eustis

Miles Paddled: 8.75 in 2.5 hours with lunch break
Portages: 0
Paddling Partners: Russ Ford and Karrie Thomas
Wildlife: Eagles
Weather: 50s-60s, overcast, gusting winds, intermittent rain showers



Looking across the river from the put-in at Kennebago Bridge

Departing from Kennebago Bridge on Tuesday
Cherry Run

Cherry Run

Waiting for Russ lining Cherry Run
One of seven, near Barn Doors
Lunch break near river outlet

The Bigelows 
Looking east back to outlet from Eustis boat launch
Flagstaff Lake NFCT kiosk
Checking out Flagstaff Lake from Route 27 bridge


Additional Planning Information 

Courtesy of Russ Ford

Note: This is not a guarantee of predicted flow. You must scout the river at Fansanger Falls and look at water levels for yourself before deciding to run this section.

While we were on the South Branch of the Dead on May 20 and 21, 2019, the Spencer Stream USGS gauge peaked at between 1600cfs and 1700 cfs. 


Lower Dallas Bridge on May 20

Spencer Stream peaked the morning of the 21st. We observed the South Branch at the Lower Dallas bridge camping area to have peaked late in the day on the 20th. So IF the two watersheds received comparable rainfall (which we do not know), the conclusion is that the upper South Branch is a slightly smaller, steeper, ‘flashier’ watershed.

Past observations of South Branch water levels, and how they correlate with Spencer Stream gauge readings, provide three ‘data points’. When it was 300 cfs at Spencer Stream, the South Branch was too low for a thru-paddler. When it was 1400 cfs at Spencer Stream, Chuck Horbert’s group of expert solo open boaters found the South Branch to be ‘ideal’– they paddled everything except Fansanger. And at 1600 – 1700 cfs (at Spencer) we needed to do some lining and appreciated the K-boat scouting in our open ww tandem.

I’m not sure how I would have felt trying to run the lower South Branch at that level in a loaded Penobscot or Minn II. However, I think at lower water levels (above 300, but below 1400) a thru-paddler could consider trying that section rather than wheeling the road.

High Water on the South Branch of the Dead River

May trip photos: Courtesy of Karrie Thomas