Map 2, Day 6: Middle Saranac Lake to Saranac Lake, NY

Date: July 27, 2012

Mileage: 12 miles, but felt longer

Weather: Breaking clouds to sunshine

Portages: 0

Rain ceased during the night and we were able to have breakfast on the bluff overlooking the lake. Breakfast consisted of one uneaten Triple Berry Dessert fortified with one package of instant oatmeal and a handful of pumpkin seed/dried cranberry/almond gorp.

Paddled into the tended lock and through Lower Saranac Lake which I still think is one of most scenic sections of the trail, in spite of the motorized boats. Stopped at the Ranger station to confirm the location of the lean-tos (sites #63 and #81) and witnessed two large women getting ready to head out for the weekend on a skiff, one of whom was precariously balancing four of the largest (soon to be outlawed in the state of New York) big gulp McDonald's drinks on the little standard-sized carrier and the other holding an apparently depleted box of donuts while heatedly discussing which of their spouses had dipped into the donuts. I really wanted to wait to see if the soda survived the boat launch, but we had to be on our way.

Upper Locks

We love this sign. But where ARE the Lower Saranac Lake police hiding?

Lower Saranac Lake

Arrived in Saranac Lake at 3 pm after portaging around the dam--which is the only thing on this leg that I hadn't done last year. Paddled the short distance to St. Regis Outfitters where we picked up our car that they had shuttled.

Following the portage signs behind the Saranac Lake police station.

Sam seems a bit too happy the trip is over.

First section (85 miles) done! Again!

Dinner: Blue Moon Cafe (just like last year)

We afterwards checked in at the Sunday Pond B & B near Saranac Inn and then attended the NFCT Film Festival in Tupper Lake, where I was able to meet NFCT Director, Kate Williams, 2011 through-paddler and film maker, Mike Lynch and sectional paddlers Chris and Patty Gill. The following day, Chris, Patty and I participated in the 740 mile paddle challenge together while Sam found an awesome golf course to play.

Excellent vacation and section 1 completion.

Map 2, Day 5: Stoney Creek to Middle Saranac Lake

Date: July 26, 2012

Mileage: 8 miles

Weather: Showers on and off all day

Wildlife: Three whitetail deer, geese, loons

Portages: 2

The rain that started during the night seemed to abate at dawn, but then picked up again. Didn't need to be anywhere very soon, yet, so we hunkered down, until nature called and I needed to leave the tent. Opened up the vestibule to see a small pond forming on top of the pine needle duff and heading toward the formerly unnoticed depression where the tent was positioned. Sam got the bedding and tent packed up while I hung the tarp and started making breakfast- Hot Apple Cobbler. Still didn't feel like we wanted to go anywhere too quickly. Then we decided to make a second breakfast of eggs and hash browns since it was still raining. Finally figured we did need to start moving, got everything packed up left when we felt the rain was beginning to lighten. Picked our way up Stoney Creek to Stoney Creek Ponds where it did stop raining.

Heading up Stoney Creek

Checked out the campsites near the Indian Carry. There are more than the one indicated on NFCT map--at least 3, possibly 4. All looked lovely. Carried our gear on the portage trail for the first half to the road and then put the wheels on from Hwy 3 to the put-in.

Indian Carry

Indian Carry boulder mosses

Headed onto the misty-enshrouded Upper Saranac Lake, which even provided enough respite for our rain gear to dry out. Didn't last long. As we arrived at the Barlett Carry take-out, it began to sprinkle again.

Launching on Upper Saranac Lake

The carry was uphill on the road and then downhill on the trail. Last year's massive downfall had been removed and we wheeled everything right down to the put-in.

This year's shot on the Bartlett Carry

Middle Saranac Lake is beautiful in spite of the rain that continued to fall. But, our day became tedious as we made some conclusions about the Map 2 symbols which were in error. Because we had been able to register for a site at Tioga Point, and having passed through Forked Lake, which also had a ranger station, we incorrectly assumed we would find a similar situation for the Saranac Lakes Island Campground. (Because: There is a green tree icon showing the campground, just  like the other state campgrounds.) I now realize that the headquarter information IS written on the NFCT map, so I just hadn't read it. But because there were also icons indicating lean-tos, we also assumed there were free camping sites on this lake, just like on Upper Saranac, Long Lake, etc. This is not the case. While the lean-tos apparently exist, they are part of the state campground and thus, fee-based and reservable and apparently were being used.

After paddling back and forth between Windy Point, the icon where we expected to see a ranger station and the lean-to icon shown by the entrance to the Saranac River, AND seeing several open (numbered) sites, we finally stopped to ask some campers about the locations of the mystery lean-tos and ranger station. It was at this time we learned that one needed to register at the headquarters located several miles away past Lower Saranac Lake (where we had registered and stayed at a 5 star campsite last year), but which is a totally impractical distance especially now that the rain hadn't ceased and it was getting late.

We had picked the right people to ask, however. A large group, they had registered for four sites, but were only using two. We were able to "legally" camp on one of their paid-for sites--although I admit, I wouldn't have hesitated to set up in an unoccupied site that clearly wasn't going to be used that night and pay for it the next day.

Unloaded and started setting up the tarp as the rain really opened up--the hardest so far that day. If we weren't already wet, this clinched it. Set up the tent under the tarp and POP! the pole breaks. Just like last year. Under the same situation. Rain and tightening up the rain fly. Man oh man. What is with this? Love the tent, but these darn aluminum poles. Last year it broke 8 nights out from the end. This year, it's our last night, so we duct taped the heck out of it and it stayed put.

We opened the second box of wine I had brought. (New packing favorite. Can even bring these babies along on the can-banned BWCA trips). That took the edge off of our wet day.

Sodden dinner accommodations

Middle Saranac Lake campsite

A peaceful Middle Saranac Lake after the rains

Dinner: Lemon-pepper tuna with a basmatic pilaf. Boxed wine. All of it.

Side note: Mountain HardWare replaced my entire set of poles this year instead of just the one that broke. I'm still taking two extra repair pieces along with me regardless. Still. Happy with their customer service.

Map 2, Day 4: Long Lake to Stoney Creek

Date: July 25, 2012

Mileage: 22.5 miles

Weather: Sunny am/overcast pm

Wildlife: Small mouth bass, youth groups and seal-like men

Portages: 1

Didn't sleep as well as I would have preferred, since we had the luxury of paying for an actual bed. Our room was on the street side on the second floor and we could hear people talking on the porch and later, emergency vehicles racing out into the night to, what turned out to be a critical accident along Hwy 30. Got up at 5:30 am and poked our head into the general store to see if we could get a spot of coffee. Although the store wouldn't open for another two hours, the kind young lady brewed us some coffee and sold us some nectarines. And with that, we were ready to face the day.

Leaving Long Lake with the one of the two elixirs of life.
Beer, being the second...

North on Long Lake

Side note: Keen sandals work well also as cup holders sitting, unworn, in the bottom of a canoe.

Long Lake was calm in the early morning, but became windier as the day wore on. Stopped for a hobbit-inspired "second breakfast" at the Plummer's Landing lean-to. We may have camped here 30 years ago when we hiked a portion of the Placid-Northville trail. I'm certain we hiked along Long Lake, because we came upon some bears, which we later learned were common in the Long Lake area. (Hence their logo?!!!) It felt vaguely familiar, but since blogs didn't exist back in the day and I didn't keep a trip report, no way to know for certain if we were following old footsteps.

Entered back into the Raquette River and came upon a man fishing for bass at the confluence of the Cold River. Not wanting him to miss landing a fish, we waited and watched and then marveled at the nice size fish he caught. We were happy for him that we hadn't wrecked his chance of reeling it in. Then he pulled up his stringer. Apparently he knows what he's doing. A youth group caught up to us, with fishing gear, and stopped to try their luck after he left.

Not too shabby of a day

The mandatory 1.3 mile portage around Raquette Falls was very busy. In addition to the youth group that ended up catching up to us, without fish, there were another 4 or more parties with whom we leapfrogged during the portaging. We took a break for lunch at the same lean-to we did last year while waiting out a downpour, and prepared the same lunch of skillet bread. While we were eating, we watched some young men race down the trail, each pulling a canoe tied to them--no wheels, just slick hulls on pine needles. Not sure their leaders knew what they were doing. Hope they were rentals. Or not. Not good either way. I think they were at least partially indestructible royalex. Watched a couple arguing, saw someone schlep a large cooler, kids portaging blue barrels by each holding the side handles as they walked and a one light-headed boy whose counselor was getting him to drink more water when they stopped. (That group decided to stay at this lean-to for the night.) I walked to the lower falls and looked around a bit more. There are lots of lovely campsites in this area in addition to the lean-tos. 

Skillet bread lunch break

When we repacked and headed to the put-in, I counted 13 canoes. We found that the canoe-pulling boy scouts were taking a dip and soaking up the sun on the rocks. Among them were several seals and one walrus.

Busy portage put-in area at Raquette Falls

Several seals and one walrus

Paddled until Stoney Creek and set up camp early (for us) rather than push on (like last year.) The lean-to was taken, so we pitched the tent. Even had enough time to cut (and leave) some firewood. Sky became overcast and we heard from one of the youth groups that there could be rain tonight. I accidentally had my ipod with me, so sat by the fire, doing some beading, listening to music and feeling pretty blissful. A few no-see-ums biting, but overall, another fine day.

Busy beading at the Stoney Creek campsite

Dinner: Pasta with tomato sauce and parmesan cheese, pecan fudge

Map 1, Day 3: Raquette Lake to Long Lake, NY

Date: July 24, 2012

Mileage: 18 miles

Weather: Partly sunny, occasional sprinkles

Wildlife: Loons, eagle, osprey, geese, ducks

Portages: 4

Light tail winds carried us to the Forked Lake access. We passed by the two lean-tos on Outlet Bay, the second of which had a tarp covering a damaged roof. Glad we had decided to stay at Tioga Point the night before. Sky looked threatening at times, especially as we approached the Forked Lake Campground. Like Tioga Point, there is a ranger station where you can register and stay in any open sites for a fee. Like the Saranac Lakes, the paddle access-only sites on Forked looked beautiful too.

There is one free DEC lean-to/campsite on Forked Lake, but it is located closer to the green shaded area indicating the state campground boundaries and not adjacent to the outlet shown on the map. It is unnumbered, whereas all the other sites on Forked Lake are numbered.

New Forked Lake Access "Canoe Carry" sign on Outlet Bay

Didn't think to photograph this last year

Forked Lake access

Forked Lake access road

Forked Lake put-in

Forked Lake State Campground Rentals

Took a lunch break at Forked Lake thinking we might need to wait out a storm, but nothing materialized so we started on the 1.5 mile portage down the road. All wheelable except for the last .1 mile from the road to the river, which is a rough trail. Still manageable. We left the wheels on. Used our harness method for pulling the canoe along the road which works out well.

Harness system in use on the road to the Raquette River

The two carries around Buttermilk Falls and the rapids on the Raquette River are not wheelable. Buttermilk Falls is rocky, stepped, rooty, swampy (after yesterday's passing storms). The final portage by-passing the rapids is longer at .6 miles and would be equally difficult for wheels. I took a trail turn-off  too soon near the Deerland lean-to and ended up sinking to my calves when I tried to cross a wet area taking a "short cut" back to the trail. We carried everything. Ironically (or not) there was a broken and abandoned set of portage wheels near the lean-to with a bent and missing wheel. Does this serve as a warning?

Arrived at Long Lake village around 4 pm--pretty much the same time as last year, and with another headwind. Unlike last year, I didn't make Sam paddle another 5 miles to camp. We stayed at the Adirondack Hotel, instead of just getting a beer, and had a fine meal in the restaurant, then walked around the town for a little bit as the wind died down.

Our third night's lodging (and meal)

Dinner: I had the duck breast over a rice pilaf and Sam had the steak and shrimp. Delish!

Map 1, Day 2: Seventh Lake to Tioga Point, Raquette Lake

Date: July 23, 2012

Mileage: 10 - 12 miles

Weather: Sun, scattered T-storms

Wildlife: Loon and loon babies, assorted water birds

Portages: 2

At the Eighth Lake campground take-out/portage, we ran into the people who had camped at the awesome bluff lean-to spot the night before. Turns out, we just ran into another through-paddler, Alex, who did the trail in 2010 and are also beginning to section paddle the NFCT.

Loon babies

First portage through the campground is still easily wheelable.

Second portage from Eighth Lake to Brown's Tract was also okay to wheel (with occasional roots and rocks to negotiate over and around), but unlike last year, when there were many blowdowns across the trail, this year the trail was unobstructed.

Beginning of the Brown's Tract Carry

Sun was shining through the puffy cotton-ball clouds as we loaded and began paddling through Brown's Tract. Heard some distant thunder. Continued to meander through the tract. Sunny sky went away. Thunder got closer. Last year, we hit the tract at the end of the day, tired. Thought we'd be able to enjoy the bog more this year. Wrong. Our meander turned into a race. Without firm ground to easily get to, we were trapped and had to continue to the outlet on Raquette Lake. Skies opened up and it poured. A warm rain to be sure, but still. Didn't want to waste time taking out the rain gear. Surely the bridge was just ahead. Another 10 or  minutes later it was, just as the sun came out.  The talc-written message Team Moxie had left for me last year had almost faded away, but just barely visible. It will be gone by next year.

Bridge near Raquette Lake, NY

Headed off to the Raquette Taproom to dry off over a malted beverage, Manhattan chowder and some steamed clams. Was getting ready to head out on Raquette Lake when we heard thunder again in the distance. Thought we'd be smarter this time and wait. Got some ice-cream at the general store then headed to the library to look up the weather radar. Only 10% chance of T-Storms yet that afternoon, but  85 - 100% between 7 and 8 pm tonight. Headed off around 3:30 or 4 pm with the idea of getting to Outlet Bay to be closer to the Forked Lake portage. By the time we approached Tioga Point, the wind was starting to pick up so we decided to spend money on an open State Campground lean-to and spend the night there instead. Lean-to #2 on the point is beautiful and was well-protected. We watched the clouds move, waves roll and in general enjoyed a lovely stormy night.

#2 Lean-to at Tioga Point

View of the incoming storm from Tioga Point

Dinner: Spinach/mushroom/cheese rice casserole, oranges, chocolate pudding and the last of the slimy carrot sticks.

Map 1, Day 1: Old Forge to Seventh Lake

Date: July 22, 2012

Mileage: 15 miles

Weather: Sunny, light winds

Wildlife: Loons, mergansers, geese, other assorted birds

Portages: 1

Theme song: Don Mclean's American Pie

Last year, Bruce Cockburn's "Wondering Where the Lions Are" and U2's "Beautiful Day" were the songs we kept singing along the trail. This year it was American Pie, thanks to hearing it play on the late night drive through Michigan. We have since been trying to remember all the verses. Was much easier when singing along with the radio.

Besides paddling this section at a slower pace than last year, we also are planning to make more stops in a sort of pub crawl with the canoe. Started out the morning by having breakfast at a diner in Long Lake near Hosse's, then headed south back to Old Forge, passing the Adirondack Museum in Blue Mountain Lake, which once again, I have yet to visit.

After a quick visit to MountainMan Outfitters to pick up a stuff sack for the raingear, signed the registries and we (re)launced from Old Forge around 10:30 am.

It is Sunday and a warm day in July. Lots of motorized boats were out and about enjoying the day. On Fourth Lake, we saw tell-tale table umbrellas, a large deck and beer signs, so we parked our canoe by the marina, and stopped for lunch at Daikers Bar and Grill.

The canoe is dwarfed by the other pleasure boats

Last year we had been met by John, a summer resident on Fourth Lake, who had invited us to their camp on Fourth Lake for a fine breakfast of blueberry pancakes. After lunch, we looked, and found, the camp again and stopped in for a quick visit with John's wife Kathy. We had just missed John who may have passed us as we were paddling toward their place.

On to Inlet, NY and the first portage from Fifth to Sixth Lake. It was a different feeling to actually KNOW what we were looking for and just paddle to the take-out without referencing the map. Calf muscles still burned wheeling the canoe up the hill, so no difference there. 

Put in on Sixth Lake where we met two boys who were swimming at the Sixth Lake dam. Learned from one of them that he is from one of the original local families and that his grandfather was an ADK guide. Paddled past the first beautifully located, but occupied, lean-to on a bluff on Seventh Lake. Last year we missed all opportunities to stay in the lean-tos due to the mileage goals and/or occupations. This year we wanted to take advantage of them. The second one was open, so we stopped. Sam was pleasantly surprised to find recent copies of Golf and Sports Illustrated left on the shelf. I read an entry in the lean-to journal about a family who had returned to this place year after year for over 50 years. In the early years, mom and kids spent the entire summer here while dad worked in Buffalo returning on the weekends. Over the years spouses and then grandchildren would join them in the annual trip back to this specific lean-to. Only a few weeks earlier, they were here again, this time to spread the ashes of their dad in the woods.

View of Seventh Lake from the lean-to

Dinner: Cream of spinach soup with smoked salmon, croissants, carrot sticks and cookies.

Starting Over: Maps 1 and 2

Back for round two of the NFCT. Am planning on sectional paddling the entire trail again over the next several years. Would like to do this sequentially, but may have a conflict with other travel plans getting in the way that will prevent me from being in the right season (early enough) to paddle the Saranac River next year.

But the blog, and adventure, continues.

This year: Old Forge to Saranac Lake in 6 days vs. last year's 3.5 days.

Like last year, I recruited the same person to paddle the first section. My supportive husband Sam. With promises of golf being part of the "vacation" deal, we left Green Bay on July 19th, taking the afternoon ferry from Manitowoc, WI to Ludington, MI. Saved money by spending the first night sleeping in the back of the car at a Michigan State Forest campground. Took our time traveling across Ontario, stopping for lunch and a quick wine tasting in the Niagara Lakes region. Checked out golf opportunities with ideas of where to stop again the next time we pass through. Spent money that night at the very nice Sherwood Inn in Skaneateles, NY in the Finger Lakes region. Sam golfed the next morning before we continued on to Old Forge, NY.

2011 through-paddler Mike Lynch was presenting a talk on his trip in Lake Placid on Saturday night, July 22 and I had hoped to get there to meet him. But...the Iron Man contest was being held the same weekend and we didn't have reservations anywhere and things were all very booked as we headed north toward Lake Placid and it was getting later and later with miles to go. Found a sign pointing to a camping place, which turned out to on Long Lake near the Deerland lean-to and close to Buttermilk Falls, so we pitched the camp and stayed. A lot of permanent "campers", but the tent sites are lower, overlooking the water and quiet. The family who runs The Hideaway Campsite on Long Lake are very nice. You can't tell there is camping there when paddling from the water, which is too bad as it would be a nice option for through paddlers, although it isn't free. ($20) They also had coin operated showers. Took a short drive to the falls and checked on the Raquette River levels before turning in.

The lakeside tent area at the Hideaway Campsite on Long Lake