Oct 13, 2011

Oct 12, 2011

Trip Summary/Resources

It's fall now. My Teva sandal tan lines are fading and I've fallen back into some of my old habits of staying up until midnight reading, working or being online. The daily simplicity of observing the weather, evaluating maps and paddling has been replaced by the usual commitments, schedules and deadlines.

Although I took 53 days, the route can certainly be traversed much faster. Even so, the trip passed by too fast. A sense of urgency pushed me along in order to stick to the itinerary. Yet traveling at the speed of a canoe still allowed me to move much more slowly through the varied environments as the miles flowed by.

If I were to do it all over again, I'd perhaps linger longer in Quebec or take the time to hike up Mt. Kineo. I'd know where to locate that elusive Mississquoi Bike Trail and exactly where to look for the Mud Pond Carry rock cairn on Umbazookus Lake.

I still don't know exactly why the NFCT captured my imagination back in March 2010. Surely the idea of being able to utilize the canoe and camp for a trip lasting more than several days was appealing. And I loved the chance of being able to spend more time in a part of the country I've only passed through. Ultimately I was probably motivated by the idea of a physical challenge doing something I love and having the time and resources to be able to do it. I didn't feel compelled to set any records or eschew accepting rides. I spent time with friends and family in the outdoors and I experienced the kindness of strangers.

My trip was unusual in that I had to coordinate six people. And I had the occasional access to a vehicle that allowed me to regularly restock and avoid some portages that followed roads. I know there are purists (definition please?) out there, but I honestly don't know (or care) why following the trail that actually uses a road as the connecting segment makes any difference what means is used.

But to accurately reflect my experience, keeping in mind that the conditions were unique to the time I traveled, I present my trip synopsis.

Wherever the trail takes you, may you enjoy many miles of happy paddling!

Katina Daanen
October 12, 2011


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Trip Summary

Skipped Sections/Total Mileage

Map 3: 9 Miles
Between Union Falls Dam and Claysburg, NY
Reason: Avoided Class III-IV Tefte Pond Falls with limited or no portaging options besides walking the same 9 mile stretch.

Maps 4: 11 Miles
Lake Champlain crossing from Plattsburg to N. Hero Island, Lake Champlain, VT
Reason: Car had been shuttled to Plattsburg where we were intending to head to Burlington, VT to pick up Beckie (leg 2); getting the hole in the canoe repaired put us behind a day and so we started from N. Hero Island rather that return to Plattsburg in order to continue on schedule. In hindsight, we had great conditions and, at the completion of Beckie's leg, we ended up being ahead of schedule, something we couldn't foresee on that first day.

Map 5: 7 Miles
Richford to East Richford, VT
Two reasons: 1) Water levels were very low with the promise of more gravel bars until the border. I felt like I had pushed Beckie enough going upstream and 2) We had connected with Russ, who was able to spend a particular morning paddling into Quebec with us and could pick us up in Richford.

Map 5: 7.5 Miles
Mansonville to Perkins Landing, Quebec
Reason: Took the Canoe & Co. Shuttle over the Grand Portage and was picked up at our campsite at Sectuer Nautique. Includes the 5.6 mile portage.

Map 6: 10.5 Miles
Newport to West Charleston, VT
Reason: Always intended to avoid the Clyde River Class II-III rapids near Derby Center, but missed more because Beckie and I utilized Clyde River Recreation for our shuttle when we took it to Island Pond and paddled DOWNSTREAM on the Clyde to West Charleston where the outfitter was located. We were able to leave the canoe and some of the gear overnight in West Charleston and got a ride back to our motel in Newport. Includes two portages (1+ miles total) around the dams.

Map 6: 18 Miles
Nulhegan River from Island Pond to North Stratford
Reason: Nulhegan was unnavigatible after Wenlock Crossing after consulting several sources including the Northwoods Stewardship Center. Had to utilize a single ride offer out of Island Pond that we begged for and thereby missed the opportunity to paddle the deeper section. Includes a 3.3 mile wheelable portage along highway 105.

Map 7: 7.3 Miles
West Milan to Great Northern Moose Lodge (lower section of Thirteen MileWoods)
Reason: Had taken a shuttle to Errol in order to paddle the Androscoggin downstream. Had reservations at the Great Northern Moose Lodge as a rendezvous point and Linda's sons picked us up at the closest take-out section to the lodge. Includes 3.8 miles of the wheelable portage along Hwy 110A between West Milan and the Pontook Reservoir.

Map 9: 23.5 Miles
South Branch of the Dead River: Rangeley to Stratton, ME
Reason: It was dead. Includes 4.5 wheelable Dallas Carry along Hwy 16.

Total portage miles missed: 18.5
Total paddling missed: 75.5
Total: 94 Miles

Regrets:
Missing the Lake Champlain crossing, the Nulhegan (especially the Silvio O. Conte NFWR), and paddling the full length of the Androsoggin.

No Regrets:
Avoiding the Tefte Pond Falls, taking a shuttle over the Grand Portage, not attempting to paddle a very bony, dry S. Br. of the Dead River and wheeling any portage along a highway.


Gear Performance
Took a beating on the rockier rivers and punched a hole in it in Plattsburg on a ledge. Once fixed, it still performed well. After the initial damage, I still was leery of boney rivers. The 54# weight was light enough for easy carrying.

I picked these up at a rummage sale for $5. I think we have the model 260 which has the smaller, fatter tires and a low clearance,  but worked well over roots and rocks. It was very sturdy. When the trails were really rough in places, we'd sometimes pick up the canoe with the strapped on wheels, (and without the gear bags) and lift it over the bigger boulders. I used two old Thule straps to hold it on to the canoe (which also helped when I got rides and needed to strap the canoe down.) I had no issues with my wheels, but I also missed 18.5 miles of portaging and I carried the canoe on a few portages that were technically wheelable. We also had little rain or mucky trails. The only thing I did was top off the air once in Errol. 

Mountain Hard Wear Lightwedge 3 Tent
I bought this tent new in 2010. It wasn't lightweight, but I like extra space. It worked out great (easy to set up and we stayed 100% dry even in downpours), until one of the aluminum poles snapped after 23 days on the trail. This model is no longer available.


Physical Preparation
Beginning at least 15 months before I left, I upped my yoga classes from twice a week to three to five times a week, continued participating in my usual two to three weekly YMCA circuit classes and added swimming 50 to 80 laps once or twice a week beginning in January. The first few days of the trip were still tough, which was the case for each of the paddlers who subsequently met up with me as well. When I weighed myself on the same YMCA scale two weeks after the trip was over, I had lost 11 pounds. 

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Resources


Shuttles

St. Regis, Saranac Lake
1) Transported our car from Old Forge to Saranac Lake and on to Plattsburg, NY
2) Once in Saranac Lake, we determined they could shuttle us around Tefte Falls: We used our car to drive to Franklin Falls Pond, where we left it at the boat launch. They picked it up and then us at Union Falls Pond taking us past Tefte Falls and dropping us off at Clayburg to pick up the Saranac River which took us the rest of the way to Plattsburg.

Canoe & Co, Glen Sutton, Quebec
Grand Portage shuttle. Made a late decision to get the shuttle and was able to call from a phone booth in Mansonville (50 cent Canadian coins), arranging to be picked up the next morning from our campsite.

Clyde River Recreation, West Charleston, VT
1) Picked Beckie and I up in Newport and dropped us off in Island Pond to paddle the Clyde downstream.
2) Two days later, repeated--bringing Linda and I to Island Pond to continue heading east on the trail.

Island Pond (begging)
From Island Pond to North Stratford
A reliable shuttle resource/contact would be helpful out of Island Pond when the water levels of the Nulhegan are less reliable.

Gordy's General Store, West Milan, NH
We used them to pick us up from Stark to paddle the Upper Ammonoosuc back downstream. They also would have taken us up to Errol. (Instead we got a ride from a neighbor of the Stark Inn B & B to Errol. Another shuttle source for taking the Androscoggin downstream is Northwoods Rafting out of Milan, NH.)

Stratton Motel, Stratton, ME
1) Joyce and I drove my car to Stratton, where we left it at the Maine Roadhouse. Susan shuttled us back to Errol where we picked up the trail again heading toward Rangeley/Stratton.
2) Also utlized the services to have Kay picked up at the Bangor airport.

Ectopelagicon, Rangeley, ME
Instead of waiting for a ride from the Stratton shuttle back to our car sitting at the Maine Roadhouse, we got a ride to the car from Ectopicon, who also provides rides for paddlers and AT hikers.

Other resources for holding the car:
Quality Inn, Burlington, VT  (Sleep, Fly, Park)
Sam stayed here when he flew back to Wisconsin and we left the car here for several weeks until Joyce flew in and picked it up.

Bangor Airport, ME
Longterm parking. Car was left here for 12 days.

Approximate cost for shuttles: $1100

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Lodging

Total nights camping: 34

Total nights lodging: 20
(11 were breaks we took on the trail; 9* were part of the paddler rendezvous or swap overlaps or began/end of the trip.)


Lodging costs ranged from $50 – $90 per night (for two). Grand Falls Hut charged us significantly less because we didn't eat there. Only a bed charge.)


*The Forge Motel, Old Forge, NY
Fogarty's B & B, Saranac Lake NY (2 nights)
* Quality Inn, Burlington, VT (2 nights)
* Holiday Harbor Lodge, North Hero Island
Somerset Inn, Enosburg Falls, VT
Gray Gables Mansion B & B, Richford, VT
*Newport City Motel, Newport, VT
* The Lakefront Inn & Motel, Island Pond, VT
Stark Inn B & B, Stark, NH (2 nights)
*Great Northern Moose Lodge, Dummer, NH
Maine Roadhouse Hostel, Stratton, ME (3 nights)
Flagstaff Lake Hut
Grand Falls Hut
Rockwood Cabins, Rockwood, ME
* Sally Mountain Cabins, Jackman, ME
*Northern Door Inn, Fort Kent, ME




Oct 11, 2011

NFCT Facebook Connections: Laurie and Team Moxie

One of the unexpected joys of my trip was crossing paths with other paddlers. In addition to leap-frogging with Pat and Jess for the first two weeks, the richness of my experience was deepened through meeting fellow paddlers Laurie Chandler and Team Moxie (Justine, T.K. and Moxie), folks with whom I initially connected with online via the NFCT Facebook's page. I was in touch with Justine very early on and we were elated to discover that we both were celebrating 50th birthdays in 2011. And that was just the start of some common bonds.

Laurie tracked me down, wondering who from Wisconsin had made a small contribution to her Paddle for Hope, something which I also learned about on the NFCT Facebook page. (Congratulations Laurie on surpassing your goal!)

Through the NFCT's Facebook page, I also found contacts and received great advice from Chris Gill and Kalmia Augustafolia. Thank you!

Before leaving Maine, I was able to meet both Laurie and Team Moxie in person. Even as I write this six weeks later, I still get goose-bumps thinking of these fortunate encounters. As Justine told me when we compared our individual excursions; "You were with us on our trip." And the same is so true for me too.


Messages from both Laurie and Team Moxie
left (and found) for me at Hurricane Island
on Flagstaff Lake.

Laurie and I look over photos and compare notes

Team Moxie (including Moxie) with Sam and I

Sistas!

Day 53, Aug. 25: End of the Trail

Mileage: 17

Weather: Overcast, threatening showers

Wildlife: A murder of crows, a gaggle of geese, a cast of eagles, a hedge of heron and a brace of ducks

Ate a leisurely breakfast under the sunshine as we watched the clouds move in. Walked back up to the Pelletier office where we had a nice chat with the owner, who told us about Hurricane Irene (who knew?!), and paid our camping fees. Headed back on the water for our last day with mixed emotions. Its just about over. I'm ready to get back to my "real" world. I can't wait to see Sam. I want to keep going.

Texted Sam, who is flying in to Bangor today, picking up the car and then us, as we paddle toward Ft. Kent.

Skies look threatening, so we don the rain gear. I ended up mostly portaging the rain gear these past 52 days, but if that kept the rain away, I'm fine with it. Stopped at Savage Island near Wheelock before taking a break to eat the last of the Power Bars and share a single bottle of Heiniken left over from yesterday's purchases at the general store. Food is once again on my mind as we longingly look over at the Canadian side of the St. John where surely there is a nice cafe or two just out of our reach.

Took our time paddling to Ft. Kent threading our way between Canada and the U.S. There were some nice ledges and rock formations along the St. John and the occasional small rips--it wasn't completely flat, but nothing like the rapids near the St. Francis Checkpoint area. Hwy 161 weaves in and out along the shore as we head northeast. We later found that the water was unseasonably high at 1900 cfs and we could coast over the gravel bars easily.

Last day on the trail.
Paddling on the St. John in sight of  Ft. Kent.


Arrived in Ft. Kent around 2 p.m. Talked to the grounds crew and took the requisite photos by the eastern terminus kiosk before pulling the canoe for one last, unofficial portage to the Northern Door Inn--a good mile (?) away from Riverside Park, back toward the International Bridge. We stopped to buy fresh tomatoes from a farmer's stand and ate them like apples. Sam texted back that he was on his way and would arrive around 4:30 p.m.

Eastern Terminus

Kay's paddling achievement: 180 miles.

Leg 6 (Kay), Leg 1 (Sam) and I at the end of the trail.


Kay and I checked into the motel where we both agreed, and were relieved, to get separate rooms. She claims she could hear me shriek all the way from the lobby when Sam arrived. (Not true. I was on the phone talking to my parents.)

With the car once again at our disposal, we took a drive along Hwy 161 seeing the river from above before heading to the Lakeview Restaurant near St. Agatha for dinner.

Thanks Kay for signing up first and paddling the longest. After a quick visit to Acadia National Park, it's back to Wisconsin.

I had a very good summer.

Oct 1, 2011

Day 52, Aug. 24: Bass Brook to Pelletier's Campground on the St. John River

Kay wins the longest distance in one day award.

Mileage: 29 miles

Weather: Sunny, warm, 70s

Wildlife: Deer, eagle, mergansers

Portages: 1 - around Allagash Falls; carried -- non-wheelable for all, but a short portion on a boardwalk

The guidebook mislabels this sign/portage as the
Northeast Carry, but this is the take-out around Allagash Falls--
last portage of the trail--and not easily wheelable.

Got up early in order to get in as many miles as possible, but more importantly to hit the Two Rivers Diner in Allagash Village before its 3 p.m. closing time. Made it to the Michaud Ranger Station by 8 a.m. to check out and talked to Ranger Trevor. His uncle owns the diner. Trevor said we'd have no problem paddling the remaining 15 miles to Allagash Village before 3.

Back on the river, we continued to negotiate Class I and II rapids. The water levels were a bit lower today, but still enough to have some fun and not bang into too many hippos. Finished portaging around Allagash Falls by 9:30. The falls are huge. Lots of boiling whitewater. I can't even imagine what Hurricane Irene turned them into. The NFCT Trail Update is telling paddlers to take out at Michaud Farm, 3.5 miles upstream of the falls.

Allagash Falls - 5 days before Hurricane Irene hit

Looking downstream


Kay's back has continued to give her some issues, so we made a Tylenol/Ben Gay/stretch stop and I went for a quick swim at one of the west shore campsites. I started planning what I would order first when we get to the diner. Pie. With ice-cream.

Cruised past the Eliza Hole and Casey Rapids (still am worried whenever I see a rapids name and am still wondering about the Chase Rapids.)  Pulled up to the gravelly beach that leads up to the road and across the street to the diner. We made it by 1:30 p.m. Unfortunately, there was neither pie nor ice-cream, but there was a pie-like dessert, which I did get first, with orange juice. Then a salad, followed by a deluxe cheeseburger, fries and finally a cup of chicken-vegie soup. Eaten in this order.

Considered camping at a NFCT site there in Allagash. We didn't notice the one by Casey Rapids, but the other just past the bridge was open, but seemingly not too scenic. It was near a road and there was an outhouse   at the top of the hill in the wide open. It still was early enough, so we headed to Chamberlain next, which...we didn't find, although we had already started discussing going as far as we could before stopping. It was still early enough, the weather favorable, and we didn't look real hard, but nothing resembled any kind of campsite. We later heard that the campsite may not exist anymore.

We ran more rapids between Allagash Village and St. Francis, got stuck on one rock and banged into another accompanied by the sickening sound of fishing line being pulled out until it slows to a stop. But no new holes. Am starting to have fun and even look forward to seeing waves forming on the river. If only Linda could see me now. The Androscoggin? Piece of cake! This section of the Allagash is more open along the shores. We see evidence of an earlier flood--a battered canoed lodged halfway up a steep bank. Pieces of late model cars.

Two trucks honk at us while we're paddling along Hwy 161 and we think Ranger Trevor was one of them on his way home from work. Arrived at Pelletier's Campground around 5:30 p.m. It was private and I had thought it might have showers or a pool, like Baker's Acres. Kay and I have been camping for 8 nights straight now. Showers would be nice. But Pelletier's is very basic, and also inexpensive. It also was within walking distance of a general store, so we bought chips, salsa, ice-cream bars and beer for dinner. I also made us eat the last pudding. We have one "emergency" dinner of 5-grain soup left and a handful of power/granola bars besides some breakfast stuff. The food barrel is barren.

Last campsite of the trip at Pelletier's --
the tent pole stayed fixed!

29 miles in 8 hours: 3.625 mph. And Kay was worried about being able to paddle more than 20 miles in one day...