Maps 4 and 5: The Missisquoi River

Year Three: Repaddling the NFCT in Sections

The North Branch Missisquoi and Missisquoi Rivers—DOWNSTREAM

Perkins Landing, Quebec to Route 78 Bridge on Lake Champlain

Total mileage paddled this trip: 82.5 miles

Total sectional trail mileage to date: 212 as of May 2014

Overview:

For Through-Paddlers, the 74-mile long section of the Missisquoi River requires you to follow the west to east direction of the Trail paddling it upstream. On this return trip, my plans differed significantly from my 2011 Through-Paddle because I’m following the river downstream beginning in Quebec and ending up at Lake Champlain.

I brought the Wilderness 49#, 12-foot plastic Pungo kayak and took portage wheels to use around the longer portages like the Sheldon Springs Hydroelectric Dam. With the exception of the first (half) day of paddling the N. Br. Missisquoi, I traversed up to 19 miles of the Trail each day.

Unlike the same time last year when I was back to paddle a second section of the trail, this trip went pretty much as planned. It was divided into six days, one of which included only biking the Grand Portage from the Diorio Access point on Chem Peabody bridge to Perkins Landing (no paddling or portaging.) Springtime water levels and recent rains helped elevate the level of the Missisquoi for near perfect downstream paddling conditions. Ran all rapids except Abbey Rapids and East Highgate. Abbey Rapids may have been runnable and self rescue feasible on the day I passed through, but I was alone that day and played it safe. Two days later, the river was running much higher and faster after a heavy storm and it would have been completely unsafe for me to run solo.

Bugs were not a problem (some mosquitos) and the weather was fair. 

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Map 5, Day 11: Friday, May 23, 2014

Diorio Access on N. Br. Missisquoi to Camping Carrefours

Miles: 7.2

Portages: 1 (.7 miles—shuttled)

Wildlife: 4 beavers including baby napping at entrance to lodge with adult; great blue herons

Weather: High 50s with threatening showers

Overnight: Camping Carrefours with trailer (camped here for two nights)

Portage 1:  Through Mansonville (except Sam met me and drove me to the next put-in.)

River was a nice springtime high—an easy paddle to Sectuer Nautique from the put-in at the Chem Peabody bridge. Paddled the first 1.8 miles in 40 minutes. Sam had to pick up some groceries that he bought at the adjacent grocery store, so he just waited for me at the take-out, then shuttled me to the put-in well below the falls at the Mansonville welcome sign. A new NFCT kiosk has been installed there since 2011. The 4.7 miles noted on the map continuing on from the N. Br. Missisquoi to Camping Carrefours went very quickly too—not more than 1.5 hours of (downstream) paddling to the campsite. The water was deep enough for upstream paddling without needing to pole or track.

Sky looked dark and ready to rain at any minute, but never hit me.

I had missed Camping Carrefours in 2011 not understanding exactly where it was located or how to access it. The private campground is divided into two sections. As a Through-Paddling, you’ll pass by the “rustic” section first, which appears as a mowed, park-like area with 30 riverside campsites and picnic tables. This area extends around a bend in the river for about ¼ mile. You cannot easily access these sites from the water because the banks are very steep and the poison ivy abundant. Paddle another quarter mile or so to a small floating dock that also serves as an access point for their recreational kayak service O’katadventures. The camping office is located in the yellow two-story house at the top of the hill by the road. If you pass the dock, you will see the second camping area where RVs and seasonal campers stay. The “rustic” area is lovely, but a hike away from the dock. Coin-op showers are available and a campstore offers treats and basic camping supplies for sale.

The owners told me they usually put the Through-Paddlers at the end of a row near the river—and the showers. The bathrooms here are very clean and the showers (25¢, Canadian, for 2 minutes are very hot.) The store has bottled water, wine, marshmallows and other camping foods.

Sam made dinner in camp (steak with shrimp) and we opened a bottle of wine while listening to a french-speaking radio station.

Diorio Access: View of the start of the
Grand Portage from atop the bridge

Northwest corner of the
Chemin Peabody bridge (official take-out)

Path to an unofficial campsite
near the put-in at Secteur Nautique

Space for one tent

N. Br. Missisquoi River after Mansonville

First view of Camping Carrefour from the river.
Take-out is another 1/4 mile or so upstream
at the O'katadventures floating dock.

View of the "rustic" Camping Carrefour
sites from land

Map 5, Day 12: Saturday, May 24, 2014

Grand Portage by bike

Miles: 5.7

Portages: 1: This IS the portage 

Biking partner: Sam

Weather: Very dewy/low-cloud morning; was close to 9 a.m. before the fog burned off. High 50s with threatening showers

Wildlife: Lots of spring songbirds

Cumulative section trip miles to date: 12.9

Started out the day by first looking at the falls from the Chem Vale Perkins bridge, then hit the local farmer’s market held Saturday mornings at the site of the Round Barn. This early in the season, there were mostly bedding plants and pastries. Bought a rhubarb chutney, small pecan pie and bar of honey-oat soap. Passed by Owl’s Bread a second time and a need to stop again to buy more croissants.

Left the truck at the top of the hill by the Chem Peabody turnoff and biked the portage from the bridge to Perkins Landing. Sprinkles hit soon after we started, but ended 20 minutes later. The portage is a long uphill climb with occasional short level stretches for the first 3.5 miles. As the NFCT guidebook accurately describes, it is a quiet and lovely unpaved road passing by rolling pastures, pretty houses and leafy forests. An open vista, bordered by “Stonehenge” boulders on the south side of the road, mark the apex of the carry’s ascension. Look closely at these placed rocks and you may see signs of prehistoric etched petroglyphs. From here it is downhill the rest of the way to Perkins Landing. At the end of Chem Peabody, turn right onto the busier paved Chemin Du Lac for .5 miles. Turn left on the dirt road past the Jewett General Store and follow this steep road .7 miles to the put-in at Perkins Landing.

After the ride, we stopped in at the Jewett General Store, chatted with one of the sisters and bought some bananas and another (Owl’s Head Bakery) baguette. More rain as we headed back over the portage.

Decided to stop at the internet café to check email and warm up with some coffee. Then decided not to paddle today with the iffy skies and instead drive to Glen Sutton to look up the Mexican restaurant mentioned in earlier paddler blogs. Took showers, got ready for tomorrow’s paddle and then headed over to Glen Sutton. No businesses appeared to be in operation and Auberge Glen Sutton was up for sale. So—no services here. Now very hungry, we kept driving to Sutton, a charming French-Canadian town not in any way accessible from the trail, but had plenty of restaurants and shops. Ate at an historic 1849 hotel and restaurant surrounded by tables all speaking French. Yeah, I know Canada is another country, but visiting Quebec is like being a continent away instead of only a 12 hour drive away from Wisconsin. 

"Stonehenge" at the top of
Chemin Peabody

Petroglyphs 

Petroglyphs and Mont Owl's Head

Map 5, Day 13: Sunday, May 25, 2014

Camping Carrefours to Richford, Vt.

Miles: 16.1
Portages: 1 (.2 miles through Richford)
Weather: Blue skies, cloudless
Wildlife: Mink, Canadian Geese, Ducks

Cumulative section trip miles: 29

The Missisquoi was a pleasant downriver paddle through pasturelands to the Canadian border. The bridge by Ruiter brook had a few ripples, but in high water it was negligible. I turned around to paddle it upstream and rode it again downstream. Current is present and is takes some effort to punch through it, but not insurmountable.

What turned out to be more surprising for me was the current and almost continuous Class 1 rips from the border to Richford. I expected rapids just past the border patrol where Lucas Brook flows into the Missisquoi, and wasn’t sure about running the Stevens Mill potential Class 2+ area, but the gravel bars and/or cobbles created definite Class 1 runs with only intermittent areas of flatwater. These eight miles will prove challenging for upstream paddlers. Even with the higher water (recent rains has the river running high, but not flooded), I still bottomed out over a few cobble areas.

The Stevens Mills area consists of several runs of boulder gardens/gravel fields creating rapids. The first groups begin around a series of braided islands. In low water, you may be walking more than paddling. Even in high water, you probably need to track or pole your way through them. After passing by the cement wall remnant of the old mill, river left (your right), there is one last set of the largest rapids in this area. However, the exposed cobbled shoreline provides a route to carry around it. You’ll need to cross clear-running Stanhope and Mountain Brooks before putting back in above the head of the rapids and mostly fast-running flatwater up until the border where Lucas Brook joins the river creating one last set of up to Class II rapids.

Running them downstream in adequate to high-water was really fun under bright blue skies and the first real summer-like day of the year. Took on water on the first set of rapids with standing waves and a short wave train. This was the biggest set of rapids, but the water was high enough here that the water was flowing over the rocks and I didn’t hit any.  Ran the Class I–II rapids around the braided islands and intermittently all the way to Richford.

Portage 1:

Took out at the designated portage sign by a grassy field to the sounds of taps. A Memorial Day observance was in progress and I waited for the brass band to finish playing before emerging at the top of the hill (and making sure there wasn’t a parade or anything else going on) and portaged through town and over the bridge to the Grey Gables Mansion Bed and Breakfast. 

Met up with Through-Paddler, Eric, to swap stories and learn what errors he discovered in my guidebook. Headed over to the Ford Family BBQ for dinner and to meet up with other paddler and relatives of paddlers.

The U.S. Border Patrol take-out (or put-in)
at the U.S./Canadian border

Looking upstream into Canada on the Missisquoi River

Above Stevens Mills

Last set of rapids after the braided islands
for upstream paddlers

Wave train in last set of rapids by Stevens Mills

Confluence of Stanhope Brook on the Missisquoi/
Route 105 bridge in background

With 2014 Through-Paddler Eric at the
Grey Gables Mansion Bed and Breakfast
 in Richford, Vt.

Map 5, Day 14: Monday, May 26, 2014

Richford, Vt. to Enosburg Falls, Vt.

Miles: 16Portages: 0
Weather: Overcast and threatening showersPaddling Pal(s): Chris Gill and Russ Ford (sectional paddlers), Ent and Sterling
Ford, Ellen Ford, Kim Locke and Steve Boal

Cumulative section trip miles: 45

After a (very) hearty breakfast at the Grey Gables, the above met at Davis Park across the street for a day of paddling. The river is flat from Richford to the Magoon Ledges. Water was running nice and we all ran them river right. More flatwater. Took a lunch break at Doe Campsite perched high atop a bank and overlooking a placid portion of the Missisquoi. Another mile or so brought us to the village of East Berkshire, our halfway point where a car had been parked if anyone wanted to leave early. We did not and kept on paddling. Up next: the ruins of the Samsonville dam. Scouted the first of two drops. Three of the five boats ran it—two down the middle and one river left. Those who didn’t run it portaged along the farm field tractor trail river left. Paddled the next short stretch where there was a second, probably bigger, drop than the first. Everyone ran it river right, including Sterling and Kim who ended up running it backwards by accident which was captured on film. Samsonville to the Lawyers Landing take-out was another five miles downstream. The rain that had been mostly holding off all day started falling more steadily in the last 20 minutes making for a wet take-out with little time for goodbyes.

 

Leaving Davis Park

Someone didn't get the red canoe memo

Twin Bridges

From atop Doe campsite looking downstream

Running the Magoon ledges

Running the Samsonville Ruins
(some of us backwards)
Photo: Russ Ford

Map 4, Day 15: Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Enosburg Falls, Vt. to Highgate Dam

Miles Today: 19
Portages 3 (not including Enosburg Dam)

Weather: High 50s to mid 60s; rainy in the morning, overcast rest of the day

Wildlife Sightings: Eagle, herons, geese, ducks

Cumulative section trip miles: 64

Enosburg Falls/Duffy Hill Road access

Put back in downstream of the Bridges of Light and Flowers at the recently improved put-in off Duffy Hill Road—in a steady rain. This is a really nice stairway and boat access above the ledges. Plenty of water was flowing and I rode the wave trains over the ledges. Took on a bunch of water over the last drop, but I was pretty much wet from the rain anyway. I think the conditions were perfect Class II+ for the downstream paddler, but this would be a difficult stretch to negotiate traveling upstream to the Duffy Hill take-out with heavy current, deep waves and covered rocks. The St. Albans Street take-out would be easier to use this early in the season, although it would mean missing the pretty gorge just south of the bridge and dam. (But you can see it from the Bridges of Flowers and Light.)

I took out at St. Albans Street boat access/beach area (opposite the small island, river right, where a small red brick building can be seen near the road) to dump out the water that had washed over the Pungo’s bow.

Looking upstream at the Bridges of Flowers and Light
in Enosburg Falls from Duffy Hill Road access

River was flatwater all the way to the North Sheldon (Kane Street) bridge, above Abbey Rapids. Didn’t run this stretch for three reasons:  

1) I was alone for this segment;

2) Water could have been upwards of Class III*; and

3) I wanted to walked the full distance on the MRBT to confirm my guidebook’s alternative portage instructions.

Put-in above N. Sheldon Bridge

Took out at the rocky shore ledges at the northwest corner of the bridge (river right) and brought my wheels and paddle up to the shoulder of the road over the guardrail, only a short distance from the water, but out of site of the take-out. As I pulling up the kayak, I hear a car slow down and a door open at the point where I had left the wheels. “HEY!” I shout up. “That’s my equipment!” Two shaggy men were theoretically junk picking and claimed they were just scooping up things they thought were trash. I missed an opportunity to explain what portage wheels were, why they were there and why they should be left untouched—and about the Trail. I was too freaked out that they could have taken them that quickly. But they picked up a flattened beer can, said they still had a worthwhile trip scrounging and wished me a good day. I never felt threatened by them, just unnerved.  Anyway—NEVER leave items unattended. It was just that easy for someone to drive by and pick the gear up—whether “accidentally” or deliberately.

Portage 1:

Got the kayak on the wheels and started walking the MRVT, passing by the Abbey Bar and Grill. The trail is perched high above and away from the river, but you can't see it from the river. The Abbey has a mowed lawn to the river’s edge with picnic tables above the rapids. As a Through-Paddler, you could put in here after bypassing the rapids and walking the bike trail. (Or continue the additional .7 miles to the North Sheldon bridge put-in.) Stopping at the Abbey Bar and Grill for food or refreshment, though, is a whole while stop.

The farm field that provides the closest access to the trail just before entering Abbey Rapids is posted as private from the tractor trail off the bike trail itself. Other paddlers have taken out here and walked along the edge of the field to the tractor trail that leads up to the bike trail. Otherwise, the bike trail remains unaccessible from the river bordered by the steep hill with a 4’ wire fence at the top to get over before reaching the trail.

Otherwise, if you are not tracking up the rapids, the best place to pick up the trail IS from the 105 bridge near the ice-cream stand. Devyn’s has changed ownership and while the business still sells ice-cream, the store and restaurant is no longer operational. The new owner is not currently open to camping on her property, but sells Gifford’s ice-cream and creemees. Patronizing her business could help open more doors for future Through-Paddlers. 

Total portage from Creemee stand to the North Sheldon Bridge via the MRVT: 2.5 miles

After eating a large ice-cream cone, I put back in by the 105 bridge and paddled to the Sheldon Hydro Electric Dam take-out. Banks are mucky here and there is some wild parsnip growing in the area.

Portage 2:

Followed the portage trail up to the road and walked 1.5 miles to the low-water put-in that bypasses the dam and passes through fields on solar panels.

Paddled over to the unmarked high-water take-out to do some scouting. There are ATV tracks/trails leading up from the sandy beach directly opposite the low-water take-out. Clearings on this side of the river suggest camping may be possible and there is evidence of campfires and usage, most likely from the ATV users. The trail travels through the dark woods where it connects to the open, but marshy utility line corridor. Follow the jeep trail along the power lines and up a steep hill toward the power substation and the gravel driveway connecting to Mill Road. Mill Road connects to Shawville Road and the put-in back on the Missisquoi.

After scouting, I put back in and ran some fun Class I-II rapids a half mile below the Sheldon Springs dam take-out(s), near “Dickie's Camping Site.” This is a pain to track up, but there is no established portage trail around them. Staying river right, near the banks by “Dickie's” may be easiest.

Flatwater all the way to East Highgate where a small ledge and/or short boulder field run brought me within site of the Machia Road bridge and dam ruins warning.

Portage 3:

The portage is at the base of a ledge within an eddy—a tough maneuver in fast-moving water. I took out below a flowing brook with a small waterfall and walked over this to get to the portage route that passes through town.

Walked along shoulderless Route 105 for .5 miles and put in at the endpoint of the guardrail after all the dam debris and technical ledges. Through-Paddlers will want to take-out near the guardrail as well, before ascending too far up the ledges and then having to deal with steep river banks and/or private property.

Paddling from East Highgate to Highgate Dam was akin to lake paddling. The backwaters from the dam widen the river and the current is barely discernable. Fairly easy 4 miles of paddling.

I had been texting, reporting my locations to Sam throughout the day, but he had arrived at Highgate Dam around 3 p.m. after hanging out in Enosburg Falls for the morning, then setting up our trailer at Carmi Lake State Park. While waiting for me to arrive, he met the dam keeper, who grew up in the area and regaled him with stories of people who died going over the dam. I showed up almost three hours later.

Camped the next two nights at Carmi State Park. Stopped for dinner at the Abbey Bar and Grill enroute to the campground, where I had a delicious Maple/Balsamic marinated hanger steak.

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* Peddled (yes, biked) ten miles of the MRVT two days later after scattered T-storms and the river was much higher. East Highgate ledges were covered with bigger hydraulics, Abbey Rapids were larger and the high-water take-out by the Sheldon Springs Hydro Facility was up several feet with water covering most of the sand and the roots of the single tree growing out it.

View of Sheldon Springs low-water take-out
(from high-water take-out)

View of Sheldon Springs 1.5 mile low-water portage
route through solar fields

View of Sheldon Springs high-water take-out
(from the low-water take-out)

Sheldon Springs high-water take-out
(during low water)

Sheldon Springs high-water take-out
(after heavy storms high water)

View of Sheldon Springs high-water trail
through utility line field

Trail to Missisquoi River/Sheldon Springs Hydro Dam
 from Shawville Road

View of "Dickie's Camping Site" below Sheldon Springs

Rapids below Sheldon Springs Hydo Dam
(adjacent to Dickie's Camping Site)

East Highgate take-out
(before ledges and Machia Road bridge)

East Highgate put-in above

Machia Road Bridge

East Highgate put-in looking upstream

Machia Bridge looking downstream

from East Highgate put-in

Map 4, Day 16: Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Highgate Dam to Route 78 Bridge Boat Access, Lake Champlain

Miles: 18.5Portages: 2

Paddling Pal: Peter McFarlane (2013)

Wildlife Sightings: Eagle, herons, geese, ducks, terns, cormorants

Weather: Warm, but overcast skies. No rain, but once on Lake Champlain, dark clouds were in the south and partly cloudy skies with blue patches in the north.

Cumulative section trip miles: 82.5 miles

Portage 1: Parking lot (vs. take-out) to Highgate NFCT put-in

Portage 2: Around Swanton Dam (short carry)

Met Peter (in person for the first time) at Joey's Junction Bakery, at the intersection of Routes 207 and 78. This is .5 miles (each way) from the NFCT campsite and soooooooooo worth a stop. Breakfasts are HUGE. They are only open in the summer, after Memorial Day weekend. Hours vary. Besides huge food portions, they sell pastries and coffee drinks. Every table has a liter of maple syrup as a condiment.

Four eggs, veggies and maple sausage
over potatoes…OR…

Crumb cake french toast (stacked 6" high)
topped with maple sausage
(note the bottle of maple syrup)

   

After setting up out cars for shuttling with Sam, Peter and I put in below the dam at the NFCT campsite and headed downstream to Swanton. Water was higher due to rain and storms over the past two days, but not flood conditions. 

View of Highgate Falls from the Route 207 bridge
(looking downstream)
Photo: Peter McFarlane

Smooth flatwater all the way to Swanton. The dam here is not protected by any barriers and the take-out/put-in is near the top of it. Peter expertly eddied out while I took out above a weeping willow tree a little farther away from the head of the dam. 

Portaged over Route 78 and around the dam and put in to fast water. 

Take-out for Through-Paddlers
below the Route 78 bridge in Swanton

Peter back in the water below Swanton

The river continues to broaden as it passes through the Missisquoi National Wildlife Refuge and Lake Champlain. I'm wondering if I took the wrong channel in 2011 as I saw many more signs of herons in July of that year than I did in May of this year.

Missisquoi National Wildlife Refuge
Photo: Peter McFarlane

2014: Existing the Missisquoi Wildlife Refuge
to Lake Champlain

Lake Champlain by Shad Island

Peter and I made good time and were back earlier than anticipated at the Route 78 bridge. Had enough time to stop for dinner before Peter had to return home for an evening obligation. Decided to try our luck in Swanton, where there theoretically were several restaurants (according to my research and guidebook...) Couldn't locate the diner that Peter had stopped at in 2013 near the Swanton Motel. After driving around for 20 minutes looking for restaurants, we circled back to the downtown area and concluded that the House of Pizza was our best (and perhaps only) option with sit-down dining. And the pizza IS delicious. This appears to be the ONLY restaurant option within walking distance of the NFCT kiosk. The guidebook will be updated. Said goodbye to Peter, then headed back to our campsite. Our "camping" has been rather easy—primarily consisting of a place to spend the night that offers hot showers. To date, we've only eaten one dinner at the campsite while camping. I'm finding sectional paddling to be quite agreeable. 

A Stop at the NFCT World Headquarters

Before heading home, we first biked a portion of the MRVT. The drive to Waitsfield took us past Joey's Junction Bakery and Cafe yet one more time (Sam thinks he drove Routes 105/78 at least 9 times over the past two days with all the shuttling he did for me). So this required another visit—this time for the full and impressive breakfast. 

Stopped in to visit the staff at the NFCT office and drop off a bunch of copies of my guidebook for the organization to use before starting our way back to Wisconsin.

Signing in at the NFCT office in Waitsfield, Vt.

End of sectional paddle trip #3