Jun 29, 2015

Map 6, Days 20 - 22: The Clyde River (Downstream)

Year Four: Repaddling the NFCT in Sections

Part 3: Map 6—The Clyde River

Instead of listing my daily trips which bounced around over the next few days, the following entries will document the Clyde River section beginning in Island Pond and ending at the Bridge Street take-out in Derby Center. I paddled and portaged the last segment upstream from Newport toward the end of this year's trip.


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Sunday, May 10 and Monday, May 11, 2015

Waterbury, Vt.

Hiking Break


Spent a non-paddling day in Waterbury, Vt. hiking 5.7 miles to Silver Lake in the Green Mountains, sampling some of the Otter Creek Brewery Offerings and visiting with 2014 Through-Paddler, Dan and his wife Michelle before heading back north to resume paddling the Trail to paddle the length of the Clyde downstream.
2014 TP'er Dan Brown and I at the Swift House Inn


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Map 6, Day 20: Tuesday, May 12, 2015

Island Pond, Vt. to Great Falls Carry

Miles: 19.5 (Totaling about six hours of paddling)
Portages: 0* (Only around fallen trees)
Boat: Old Town Kayak
Weather: Pouring rain in morning, partly cloudy and sunshine from late morning through evening; mid afternoon shower; wind
Wildlife: Canadian Geese, Ducks, Osprey, Hawks, Great Blue Herons, Muskrat 
Overnight: Ten Mile Square Road with the camper

Cumulative section trip miles: 57

After leaving Waterbury on Monday, we headed up to Island Pond, where we first based camped at Ten Mile Square Road (by the Farm Stand) and later stayed at the Clyde River House (after the spring fisherman vacated it.)

NFCT Farmstead and
Ten Mile Square Road Campsite


NFCT Informational Sign
at Ten Mile Square Road

On Tuesday, we woke up to light rain and wind with gusts up to 20 mph. We headed up to Island Pond to check out the Yellow Deli, a favorite restaurant I visited two times before, but it was closed! (Hopefully only seasonally???) On our way to the boat launch, I espied a man who looked like he could be a through-paddler heading to the former Clyde River Hotel. Yup, two canoes stashed behind the lodging. There I met four men from upstate New York who started their Through-Paddler in early May. (I'm so sorry, I forgot your names!) After visiting for a short time, I headed to the Island Pond boat launch and they got ready to head east through to the Nulhegan via the pond. I launched in pouring rain. Sam headed over to the hotel to catch me paddling under it and then spent the morning at the library catching up on emails and work. Within an hour or so, the rain receded and the sun came out.

*Going downstream means I had no reason to portage around the one rapid and breached dam between Island Pond and Five Mile Square Road (the "Tubes"). Water was perfect for running the wave trains through the short rapid run and I could slide through the "V" over the breached dam. For the upstream paddler, both most likely require tracking or carrying around. I was also able to run over the beaver dams--about three of them in high water. Expect additional obstructions in low water.

Short wave train below breached dam

Rapid section between Island Pond and
Five Mile Square Road

River wide fallen tree between Five Mile Square Road
and the breached dam

The only time(s) I needed to exit the kayak and carry were around one or two fallen trees.

The course of the Clyde is fairly easy to follow going downstream. After emerging from the alder thickets and narrow channel, the Clyde River House appears on the west shore adjacent to dead stand of trees and backwater along the main channel. As far as I could tell, it's the only place on the fen where electric lines are strung out over the water crossing over from Route 105 to the house.

Clyde River House
(as seen when paddling downstream through
the Fen area—or looking back)


Like 2013, I battled headwinds going downstream through the open area after the fen to Ten Mile Square Road boat launch, where I met Sam for a quick lunch.

Back on the river, the river resumed its narrow, snaking ways. I had to carry around another large river wide fallen tree soon after leaving the boat launch, which may now have been removed. This section is sometimes used as a day trip launching point for Clyde River Recreation, although the more common departure point is at Twin Bridges Road or School Road. The river is definitely kept open from School Road to Pensioner Pond. Wind was less of an issue paddling within this stretch.

Sam met me at the Route 105 Bridge Great Falls Carry take-out/put-in. 

For the upstream paddler in search of a campsite, there may be a few additional stealth camp options. 
Unlike 2011, there were no riverside sandbars on which one could camp.

Between Great Falls Carry and Toad Pond, its farm fields and flood plains, not suitable for camping.
  • Somewhere in the vicinity of, or shortly after, Toad Pond, but well before reaching School Road, a grassy clearing with rocks appear river right (your left), then the cedar with perhaps two camping areas. A firepit and stacked wood is apparent on a small point where a sign ironcially indicates no fires. 
Unofficial campsite?
(between Toad Pond and School Road)

Toad Pond to School Road: Undeveloped cedar lined river banks, might be possible for stealth camping under the cedars.

Typical scenery between Pensioner Pond and School Road

Twin Bridges Road to Ten Mile Square Road: Farm fields and flood plains, not suitable for camping.
  • An overgrown picnic (?) area appears about .5 miles beyond the Tubes, river left (your right). The area is accessible by a dirt track from Route 105, but is more secluded than the boat launch by the Tubes.
    Overgrown picnic area a few twists of the river
    east of Five Mile Square Road and the Tubes


Five Mile Square Road to Island Pond: Undeveloped cedar lined river banks especially around the rapids area.

Beaver dam near Island Pond

Cellphone service: Verizon doesn’t work in this area between West Charleston and Island Pond.




Departing Island Pond from the boat launch
Emerging from under the hotel on the Clyde River
The Tubes at Five Mile Square Road
(Had enough head room to paddle through)
The reassuring "landmark" residence after getting through
the fen, just before reaching Five Mile Square Road
Clyde River opening heading toward
Five Mile Square Road after passing the Clyde River House
The Most Photographed Turtle on the NFCT
(Between Pensioner Pond and Toad Pond)

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Map 6, Day 21: Monday, May 11, 2015

Great Falls Carry to Salem Lake

Miles: 5 (in two hours including one portage)
Portages: 1 (out of a possible two)
Boat: Old Town Kayak
Weather: Raining, threat of thunderstorms, some thunder
Wildlife: Canadian Geese, Ducks, maybe an eagle
Overnight: Ten Mile Square Road with the camper

Cumulative section trip miles: 62

Portage(s): .6 miles through West Charleston

And here is where the descent of the Clyde becomes out of sequence. This section was paddled first upon arrival Monday back up in the Northeast Kingdom. We arrived mid-afternoon and headed first to meet up with Bill Manning at the NFCT Farm Stand at Ten Mile Square Road, where we dropped off the trailer and canoe. Then onto Clyde River Recreation, located in West Charleston to pick up a rental kayak to use for the rest of the week. It was 3:30 p.m. and I could still knock off a few miles so we headed to the put-in on Charleston Pond. Technically there is a portage between the Route 105 bridge and the put-in (or take-out) below the Great Falls Dam, but Clyde River Recreation is less than a half mile, maybe even only a quarter mile, away from the mandatory portage. We instead drove to the pond. I later paddled to the takeout as part of my 19.5 mile day from Island Pond.

The NFCT campsite on Charleston Pond is right at the access and historically has been trash-filled. The adjacent property is now posted discouraging would-be campers from moving farther away into the woods.

View of Charleston Pond from Great
Falls Carry boat access (and NFCT campsite)

Charleston Pond Dam seen along Great Falls Carry

Charleston Pond is picturesque. Cedars line the eastern shoreline and there appeared to be a better stealth campsite spot or two here, prior to passing the island as a through-paddler.  

Portage: .6 miles 
Took out and strapped on the portage wheels and walked in the rain to the Fontaine Bridge. I noticed that Durgin Street is not marked (no street sign) off of Route 105 and there are no NFCT confidence medallions pointing out the turn-off. It is the first road, left, after leaving Fontaine Road and passing by Scampi's.  

Sam had been grocery shopping at Scampi's and met me on Route 105 and we confirmed an estimated pick-up time at Little Salem Lake. 

All four corners around the Fountaine Road bridge are brushy and steep. Plus there is a boulder field that begins before reaching the bridge and a ledge under it. A few houses, river left, have mowed lawns extending to the river bank a short distance before reaching the bridge. I put back in here into the Class I-II rapids. Past paddlers have taken out here as well. The owners weren't around, but it is a good idea—and courtesy—to ask for permission prior to walking across their yards.

Private property before reaching
Fontaine Bridge

Closer look at the ledges under the Fontaine Bridge

Class I-II boulder field below bridge
(as viewed from private property bordering the river)

The rapids made for a fun ride for a short distance (not so short if you are tracking up them). Soon the river quieted down and continued this way all the way to its outlet on Little Salem Lake. The lake was shallow with reeds growing in the middle of it. 

Paddled through the narrow channel and around the point into Salem Lake. Sam drove up just as I was paddling up to the Vermont Department of Fish and Wildlife David H. Wood Memorial boat launch.


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Map 6, Day 22: Friday, May 17, 2015

Salem Lake to Derby Line/Bridge St. Riverside Access and

Pouty Beach Campground to Clyde Pond

Miles: 5 miles
Portages: 0
Boat: Old Town Kayak
Weather: Sunshine, 70s
Overnight: Prouty Beach City Park with the camper the night prior.

Cumulative section trip miles: 67 miles

Sequently, the downstream trail picked up again at the Salem Lake boat launch. I, however, paddled this short section after ascending the Clyde from Prouty Beach Campground to Clyde Pond earlier in the morning. 

Sam, the shuttler, brought me back to Salem Lake around 11 a.m. and I paddled across a mile or so of flatwater and picking up the river again at the west end. I knew there were Class II rapids and had reread some sectional paddling blogs about this stretch, but for some reason, I was thinking the most difficult section was between Derby Line/Bridge St. and Clyde Pond. For this reason, I had Sam meet me at Bridge Street instead of Clyde Pond. It wasn't until we had returned the kayak and were heading back to Wisconsin that I reread the guidebooks and realized I had actually paddled the more difficult section. Crap! Totally could have hit every piece of the Clyde. But instead, I erred on the side of caution and thus missed the two miles between Clyde Pond and Bridge Street. It still is a very difficult section for upstream Through-Paddlers due to the continuous sets of Class II rapids. The banks of the river at this point are cedar lined with many falling into the water that makes it very difficult, if not impossible to track from the shoreline.

Going downstream was a blast. And less worrisome in a polyethelene kayak. I again donned the spray skirt, which kept the breaking waves from filling up the cockpit. Water levels were pretty perfect. Enough water going over the tops of the boulder fields with clear lines around larger erratics. I was more worried about any strainers or widow makers this early in the year, but this section was free of those kinds of obstacles. The Northeast Kingdom Corps volunteer whom I spoke with at Clyde Pond had told me a friend of his had run this stretch the weekend prior and hadn't reported any cross-stream blowdowns. 

After less than an hour, the Route 105 bridge appeared and the zig-zagging bend to the Bridge St. take-out. I was concerned about my ability to swiftly turn and eddy out by the take-out, so I scouted first and surprised Sam who was waiting with his back to me at the access point at water's edge. Once I saw the opening, I clambered back into the kayak and paddled 30 seconds more through one last set of rapids to the take-out. It was a perfect way to end this year's trip.


More rapids looking downstream
(toward Western Street) from Bridge Street
boat access area
But before that had happened, I started out my morning by departing Prouty Beach and paddling the Clyde upstream so I could walk the portage route and paddle Clyde Pond, two areas I missed in 2011 due to my paddler swap day and shuttle situation. 


After breakfast, I paddled away from the campground while Sam finished packing up our camper with plans to get the car vacuumed out and gassed up in preparation for our start back home later in the afternoon. Headed under the Route 105 bridge and railroad bridge passing by many people fishing for salmon. I was able to get past the Western bridge take-out point (first portage option), but the current was too strong for me to reach the Clyde Stree bridge and official NFCT take-out. I ended up taking out by the mowed lawns—and what appeared to be a fishing trail—river left (my right) to access the bridge and portage.
As far as I was able to get upstream on the
Clyde River before reaching the Clyde Street Bridge and taking out river right

Looking upstream from the Clyde Street Bridge

Strapped on the portage wheels and started heading the mile following a fairly quiet road to Clyde Pond. You can see bits of the river (and rapids) from the road up from time to time. 


US River gauge along the Clyde, .2 miles from the
Clyde Street Bridge along Upper Clyde Street

Wasn't paying much attention to a barking dog until I saw the tethered pit bull atop a picnic table at the last house on the right, within site of the Hydro facililty. I stayed road left--as far away from the menace as possible, hoping it was tethered by a chain. 
Looking down at the Hydro Facility from the portage
along Upper Clyde Street

Looking back at the house with a tethered
pit bull adjacent to the Hydro Facility

After passing the hydro entrance, the Upper Clyde Street continued to steeply climb—all the way until reaching Crawford Road. 


This is an uphill climb just past the Hydro
Facility driveway (and signed put-in for
downstream paddlers).  MUCH steeper
than it appears.

NFCT marker near Clyde Dam 
Put-in for upstream travelers on Clyde Pond

Put-in on Clyde Pond, left of the dam where a 1" wrapped rusty pipe extends into the reservoir. Paddled the short distance to the take-out and primitive camping on the upper northwest end where I ran into a high-school group who had recently built a picnic table and were finishing up with some clean-up. Their trash heap included tires, beer cans and a LazyBoy lounge chair, the latter of which we can only hope survived the elements long enough to ensure a unsuspecting weary traveler a few hours of leisurely—and with any luck—louse-free outdoor seating comfort in its final days. 

More importantly, I also learned that a new paddler access-only campsite had just been completed on the east shore under pine trees. This will be an infinitely better rest stop over the Crawford Road-accessible take-out/campsite. 

Sam met me at this take-out and I proceeded next up to Salem Lake (described above) to finish up this section,  paddling downstream.  I should have paddled right back to this take out back on Clyde Pond, thus following every navigable mile, but alas, someone did not take the time to thoroughly read the guidebooks...









Map 6, Day 19: Lake Memphremagog

Year Four: Repaddling the NFCT in Sections

Part 2: Lake Memphremagog

Map 6, Day 19: Thursday, May 14, 2015

Perkins Landing, Quebec to Newport, Vt. (Prouty Beach Campground)

Miles: 12
Portages: 0
Boat: Old Town Kayak
Wildlife: Birds
Weather: High 70s, sunny with light tail winds

Cumulative section trip miles: 37.5

Sequentially, Memphremagog would have been the next body of water I would have paddled after 2014's Missisquoi River trip. But, the timing worked out better for me to tackle this lake near the end of this year's trip. It was actually paddled on Day 6 of Year Four, but I'm inserting it here as the logical next section. 

We utilized camping at Prouty Beach in Newport where I was able to paddle right to our campsite at the end of the day. Using Sam again for my shuttle, we took the rented kayak over the border (more on that later) and headed to Mansonville with our sites set on eating lunch again this year at Owl's Head Bakery. Alas, it was not to be. Even though it was THURSDAY, the bakery wasn't open. No idea why, no hours were posted, but shelves were stocked, so it appears to still be in operation. We ate at the cafe across the street, where we had spent a rainy afternoon the year before using their free wifi. Food was good, just not the bakery we had been dreaming about. 

We drove (yes drove) the Grand Portage under clear blue skies so that I could resume the Trail from Perkins Landing, from the point I had started last year's downstream Missisquoi River trip. Arrived around 12:30 p.m. and had the kayak sprayed by the harbor master for a cool Canadian $10. 

Unlike 2011, the water only had some slight chop and I had a light tail wind. I wanted to check out the newer Eagle Point campsites this year, so I headed over to the eastern shore soon after pulling away from the boat launch. It meant I would be need to paddle across an open bay spanning just over two miles, but I had to cross to the east shore line at some point and the crossing was narrowest near Perkin's Landing. What a pleasant surprise paddling on the opposite side of the lake turned out to be! Before reaching the open bay, I paddled along the protected island of the ÃŽle-Longue Nature Reserve and its gorgeous undeveloped shorelines. After passing the reserve area, some vintage lake houses pepper the shoreline and points.


Leaving Perkins Landing in Quebec

Heading south on Lake Memphremagog
Ile-Longue island shoreline


Vintage camp on point prior to two-mile crossing

Meanwhile, Sam had headed first to Owl's Head to hit a bucket of balls at the golf course before heading back to Newport. I had suggested he just tell the border patrol that he was out for an afternoon of golf rather than explaining the somewhat complicated shuttling details. Instead, the border patrol asked him what time he entered the country and where (same road) and then looked it up. Apparently, we were photographed leaving the U.S. when entering Canada. He ended up explaining why he no longer had a kayak on the roof rack or his wife in the vehicle. Things were starting to look rather suspicious until he went on to say that I was paddling the NFCT. Even though the border station was nowhere near the water, the guard knew all about the Trail because it is on his bucket list. And, he even had a copy of my book. Suspicions evaporated and all was well.

Crossing the border via lake is no mystery. A clearly demarcated border has been hewn into the forest and even crosses the southern tip of Providence Island where the U.S. and Canada meet. Really?  


Canada/U.S. Border

Border cut into forest and through the end
of Providence Island


Soon after entering U.S. waters, the signed campsite(s) on Eagle Point appear within  a small bay. I took my first break of the afternoon here after paddling a solid three hours in the heavy kayak. This would not be my boat of choice for paddling 12 miles of lake, but you do what you gotta do. Three platforms are in the woods a short distance from the take-out and the site has one of the best looking latrines found along the trail. 


Lake house (landmark) on Eagle Point south of a small bay

Marked campsite at Eagle Point (within bay)

Platform tent sites

View from outhouse

Classy latrine


I still had another 4.5 miles or more of paddling left to do before reaching Prouty Beach Campground. The wind picked up a little and the shortest distance was paddling through open water. I was pretty tired and ready for a cold adult beverage when I arrived a few hours later. 

Prouty Beach has hot showers. The park is managed by the city of Newport, Vt. and there are many recreational fields that are used for programs. In July, a large softball tournament is held. We camped amidst the RVs, but Through-Paddlers can set up near the beach adjacent to the woods. Check in at the entry booth to register.

Our Prouty Beach trailer site





Map 4, Days 17-18: Lake Champlain and the First Annual NFCT Freshet Fest

Year Four: Repaddling the NFCT in Sections

Part 1: Overview and Lake Champlain

Total mileage paddled this trip: 75 miles
Total sectional trail mileage to date: 287 as of May 2015
NFCT Mileage marker at the end of this section: 308
NFCT missed to date: 23 total (21 from Map 3 and 2 from Map 6)

Overview:
My goal has been to sectionally repaddle the Northern Forest Canoe Trail—sequentially in annual visits since 2012. Even though this year’s trip wasn’t done completely this way, I am now up to Wenlock Crossing on the Nulhegan River, having only missed only two Saranac river sections since 2012: The technically-difficult Tefft Pond Falls area between Union Falls and Clayburg, N.Y., and 12 miles from Kent Falls to Plattsburgh, N.Y. These last 12 miles were missed due to the 2013 flood conditions that existed when I was in this area paddling from Saranac Lake (in snow), and I instead skipped ahead to visit friends in Vermont.

The peculiar order of this year’s trip was due to several factors:
  • Planning around attending the NFCT’s First Annual Freshet Fest on May 9
  •  Coordinating my visit around other paddler schedules and stays so I could meet up with them while I was out east
  • Kayak renting and weather

The original plan was to bring both the Wenonah Minnesota II and the Wilderness Pungo so I could swap out boats. The day before we left, I loaded the canoe on the cartop carrier, it’s normal place, and then placed the kayak on the teardrop camper carrier, not it’s normal place. While Thule kayak brackets will grudgingly attach to Yakima bars, it was not the happiest of couplings. Plus I didn’t think we had adequate tie down anchors in either the front or back of the trailer. Finally, it just seemed like a lot to be asking of the Suburu. Knowing I had rental opportunities along the Clyde, I decided it would behoove us to leave the Pungo behind. Ultimately, I'm sure it was at least an even trade between the kayak rental and gas mileage. Maybe we even came out ahead by renting.

In May of 2013, I paddled Map 3 and had intended to tackle Lake Champlain on Map 4, but snow and flood conditions changed those plans. Last year I paddled the full length of the Missisquoi ending up on Lake Champlain. This year, although the spring melt had occurred only a few weeks earlier, temperatures were predicted to be in the 70s and 80s. This trip was earlier than originally planned because the NFCT was holding its first annual Freshet Fest on May 9th in Burlington, Vt. and I participated as a panelist.

I brought the Minnesota II to use with Sam for the Freshest Fest social paddle and on Lake Champlain. I rented a 12’ Old Town kayak from Clyde River Recreation in West Charleston, Vt. to use on the Clyde and Nulhegan, when Sam would be doing the shuttling.

It is important to note that as of 2015, Verizon cell service is not available between Derby Center, Vt. and, at a minimum, the N. H. border.  At least my phone did not have coverage from West Charleston to the Silvio Conte Visitor Center. It worked in Derby Center.

Bugs were not at all a problem and the water levels were perfect on the Clyde.

The trip occurred during seven paddling days split up between visits to Burlington and Middlebury, Vt.

Part 1: Lake Champlain
Days 1 and 2: Lake Champlain (25.5 miles)

Part 2: Lake Memphremagog
Day 6: Lake Memphremagog (12 miles)

Part 3: The Clyde
Day 3: Charleston Pond/Great Falls Carry to Salem Lake (5 miles)
Day 4: Island Pond to Great Falls Take-Out (19.5 miles)
Day 7: Lower Clyde, Clyde Pond, Salem Lake (About 5 miles including 1 mile of portaging)

Part 4: The Nulhegan
Day 5: Island Pond to Wenlock/Hwy 105 Bridge (9 miles—Includes 1.8 mile portage)


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Monday night, May 4 through Wednesday, May 6: 

Wisconsin to Campbell’s Bay Campground, West Swanton, Vt.

Drove through the U.P. entering Canada via Sault Ste. Marie (ice still in the locks) through Ontario. Camped one night in Algonquin Provincial Park and reentered the U.S. through Cornwall, N.Y.  We camped at Campbell’s Bay Campground on Charcoal Bay near the Missisquoi National Wildlife Refuge on Lake Champlain on the eve of my first day of paddling.

Campbell’s Bay has permanent “seasonal” campsites, but offers a few sites for one-night travelers too. The free showers there were nice and hot. Since it was early in the year, we camped in the lower section overlooking the boat launch where RVs would normally park. Tent sites are available at the top of the hill. RVs are spaced close to each other and I think the campground would be much busier (and nosier) on a busy summer weekend. It was fine for a one-night mid-week stay.

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Map 4, Day 17: Thursday, May 6, 2015

Green Street Boat Launch, Plattsburgh, NY to City Bay, North Hero Island, Vt.

Miles: 14
Portages: 0
Paddling Partners: Peter McFarlane and Viveka Fox
Boat: Wenonah Minnesota II
Wildlife: Geese, water birds, osprey
Weather: High 70s, light winds
Overnight: North Hero House

2013 Through-Paddler and Lake Champlain NFCT Trail Maintainer, Peter Macfarlane and his wife Viv, were available to paddle during my visit. Together we tackled the the majority of the Lake Champlain section (25.5 miles) over two days, ending at the Route 78 Bridge. The Route 78 bridge is where Peter and I ended up my trip last year.

After spending the night at Campbell’s Bay Campground, Sam and I met Peter and Viv at the Route 78 bridge and we transferred Peter’s solo cedar canoe to our trailer roof rack. Drove to the Greene Street Boat Launch at the mouth of the Saranac River where Sam dropped us off around 11 a.m. (and proceeded on to Peru, NY to golf a 14-hole golf course.) Viv and I paddled in my Minnesota II.

Cumberland Bay was the roughest paddle of the day. Headed into a headwind and rolling swells. We cut across the three-mile bay to the Cumberland Point within an hour, turned to head north and were given an awesome tailwind. Met the three ferries with perfect timing. One had just left, the second had just arrived and was unloading and the third was across the passage at Gordon’s Landing. We paddled behind the ferries and took out near the landing for lunch. Had to scramble under low-hanging branches and up the embankment where we lunched near the white tourist building.

From Cumberland Head to the Gut, we had tailheads and sunny skies. The wind died as we entered the gut paddling right into some kind of insect hatch. Flies (black flies?) were in our faces, on our hats, on our backs—you couldn’t look up for any sustained amount of time for worry of having them fly into your eyes, ears and mouth. At least they weren’t biting.

They dispersed by the time we arrived at Knight’s Point at the Hwy 2 Bridge. Stopped to have a look around at this “need-only” Through-Paddler campsite option. The primary picnicking area is close to the highway where there are restrooms and boat rentals. In May, I could see a few picnic tables on the point prior to arriving at the beach that presumably would be a better, less visible, less accessible, camping spot if you needed to stay overnight here.

Arrived at City Bay around 5 p.m. where I met up with Sam. Viv and Peter took my tandem and paddled the one-mile distance (20 or 30 minutes) out to Knights Island State Park to camp while Sam and I stayed at the North HeroHouse Inn, a place that was on my radar since 2011. Viv and Peter were able to watch a brilliant sunset from their westward facing lean-to/campsite that we missed completely due to our lovely room facing the lake—and the east.

At the Green Street Kiosk, Plattsburgh Boat Launch
(and Peter's Otter Creek Canoe)


Mouth of the Saranac River
Photo: Peter Macfarlane

Heading across Cumberland Bay
Photo: Peter Macfarlane

Cumberland Lighthouse
Photo: Peter Macfarlane

South Hero Island
Photo: Peter Macfarlane

South Hero Island shoreline

Bird island near the Gut
Photo: Peter Macfarlane

Entering the Gut
Photo: Peter Macfarlane

Peter and Viveka head to Knight's Island
from North Hero House

Lake Champlain from North Hero Island

Shuttler, golfer and champion rock skipper

Peter and Viv's sunset from Knight Island
(looking at North Hero Island)
Photo: Peter Macfarlane


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Map 4, Day 18: Friday, May 8, 2014

City Bay, North Hero Island, Vt. to Hwy 78 Bridge

Map 4
Miles: 11.5 miles
Portages: 0
Paddling Partners: Peter McFarlane and Viveka Fox
Boat: Wenonah Minnesota II
Weather: 70s and low 80s, light tail wind all the way
Wildlife: Geese, ducks, osprey

Cumulative section trip miles to date: 25.5

Stopped for coffee and pastries at Hero’s Welcome General Store, and Peter replaced pencils and ledgers in the NFCT sign-in box located by the library thus fulfilling his trail maintenance duties. We were on our way around 10 a.m. Sam headed up to the Alban’s golf course with plans to meet us at the Route 78 bridge at 3 p.m.

In 2011, Beckie and I pulled ourselves through the culvert and paddled the inner Allsburg passage along the west shore of North Hero Island. This year we continued north along the east shore of the island. This side seems to have more summer homes and camps perched higher on rocky bluffs. My recollection of the inner passage is that it has more farmlands or fields that edge the lower shoreline. The water was decidedly greener with algae in August.

As we approached the north end of Hero Island by the closed state park, the rocky bluffs gave way to beaches, then tapering to lowlands with silver maples and grass. We stopped for lunch around 12:30ish at the boat launch, saw an area of protected beach for spiny-shelled turtle nests, and tested Peter's excellent solo canoe. Peter also went for a quick swim in the only-lately-melted lake waters. Lake Champlain completely froze over this year and only thawed as of April 19.

Easy paddling all day today, with a light tail wind. Arrived at the Route 78 boat launch just as Sam passed over the bridge at almost exactly the same time. Wiped down the boats, loaded up and went in search of ice cream, heading south. And south and south, until we reached City Bay and did stop at Hero's Welcome to buy ice-cream sandwiches before dinner at the North Hero House. Said goodbye to Peter and Viveka (thanks again for joining me for this section!) and then Sam and I met up with Laurie Chandler, a paddler from Maine whom I met in 2011, at the Grand Isle State Park. Laurie will be through-paddling this year and we all are heading to Burlington tomorrow for the Freshet Fest.

Leaving City Bay
Photo: Peter MacFarlane

Lunch time test paddle in Peter's canoe

Peter and Viveka on Lake Champlain

Near Hog's Island
Photo: Peter MacFarlane
Heading toward the Route 78 Boat Launch
Photo: Peter MacFarlane
Heading toward the Route 78 Boat Launch
Photo: Peter MacFarlane

Hero's Welcome General Store, City Bay, North Hero Island
A bench for your political persuasion

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Saturday, May 9, 2015

NFCT Freshet Fest

Arrowhead Lake Social Paddle and Gathering  at Splash, Burlington, Vt.

After spending a lovely morning in Grand Isle State Park discussing finer points of the trail with Laurie while Sam kept us plied with coffee, we headed to the Arrowhead Lake social paddle rendezvous. It was so cool to meet up with past through-paddlers that I've only know via email or Facebook—plus talking to people planning on paddling the trail in the next year or two. NFCT Executive Director, Karrie Thomas, NFCT Trail Director, Walter Opuszynski and Sandy Tarbuton, NFCT Membership & Communications Director were all in attendance too.

After a few hours meandering along the shoreline, we loaded the boats and headed to the Burlington waterfront where the dinner, the Q&A and poling presentation was held for the first annual Freshet Fest. Met up with another TPer, Dan Brown and his wife Michelle, who own the Swift House Inn in Waterbury where we were staying for the next two nights.

Grand Isle Campsite shared with Laurie

Arrowhead Lake Social Paddle

Laurie talking up kayaks 

A lot of socializing and a little paddling

NFCT Staff Paddlers, Sandy with Karrie and Karrie's paddlers-in-training

Freshet Fest Through-Paddler Reunion
Mark Fromm (2012), Skip Ciccarelli (2011), Dan Brown (2014),
Me (2011), Paul Heinz (2008), Nicole G. (2006),
Peter Macfarlane (2013)

Laurie Chandler and I at Splash