Year Four: Repaddling the NFCT in Sections
Part 2: Lake Memphremagog
Map 6, Day 19: Thursday, May 14, 2015
Perkins Landing, Quebec to Newport, Vt. (Prouty Beach Campground)
Miles: 12
Portages: 0Boat: Old Town Kayak
Wildlife: Birds
Weather: High 70s, sunny with light tail winds
Cumulative section trip miles: 37.5
Sequentially, Memphremagog would have been the next body of water I would have paddled after 2014's Missisquoi River trip. But, the timing worked out better for me to tackle this lake near the end of this year's trip. It was actually paddled on Day 6 of Year Four, but I'm inserting it here as the logical next section.
We utilized camping at Prouty Beach in Newport where I was able to paddle right to our campsite at the end of the day. Using Sam again for my shuttle, we took the rented kayak over the border (more on that later) and headed to Mansonville with our sites set on eating lunch again this year at Owl's Head Bakery. Alas, it was not to be. Even though it was THURSDAY, the bakery wasn't open. No idea why, no hours were posted, but shelves were stocked, so it appears to still be in operation. We ate at the cafe across the street, where we had spent a rainy afternoon the year before using their free wifi. Food was good, just not the bakery we had been dreaming about.
We drove (yes drove) the Grand Portage under clear blue skies so that I could resume the Trail from Perkins Landing, from the point I had started last year's downstream Missisquoi River trip. Arrived around 12:30 p.m. and had the kayak sprayed by the harbor master for a cool Canadian $10.
Unlike 2011, the water only had some slight chop and I had a light tail wind. I wanted to check out the newer Eagle Point campsites this year, so I headed over to the eastern shore soon after pulling away from the boat launch. It meant I would be need to paddle across an open bay spanning just over two miles, but I had to cross to the east shore line at some point and the crossing was narrowest near Perkin's Landing. What a pleasant surprise paddling on the opposite side of the lake turned out to be! Before reaching the open bay, I paddled along the protected island of the Île-Longue Nature Reserve and its gorgeous undeveloped shorelines. After passing the reserve area, some vintage lake houses pepper the shoreline and points.
Leaving Perkins Landing in Quebec
Heading south on Lake Memphremagog
Ile-Longue island shoreline
Vintage camp on point prior to two-mile crossing
Meanwhile, Sam had headed first to Owl's Head to hit a bucket of balls at the golf course before heading back to Newport. I had suggested he just tell the border patrol that he was out for an afternoon of golf rather than explaining the somewhat complicated shuttling details. Instead, the border patrol asked him what time he entered the country and where (same road) and then looked it up. Apparently, we were photographed leaving the U.S. when entering Canada. He ended up explaining why he no longer had a kayak on the roof rack or his wife in the vehicle. Things were starting to look rather suspicious until he went on to say that I was paddling the NFCT. Even though the border station was nowhere near the water, the guard knew all about the Trail because it is on his bucket list. And, he even had a copy of my book. Suspicions evaporated and all was well.
Crossing the border via lake is no mystery. A clearly demarcated border has been hewn into the forest and even crosses the southern tip of Providence Island where the U.S. and Canada meet. Really?
Canada/U.S. Border
Border cut into forest and through the end
of Providence Island
Soon after entering U.S. waters, the signed campsite(s) on Eagle Point appear within a small bay. I took my first break of the afternoon here after paddling a solid three hours in the heavy kayak. This would not be my boat of choice for paddling 12 miles of lake, but you do what you gotta do. Three platforms are in the woods a short distance from the take-out and the site has one of the best looking latrines found along the trail.
Lake house (landmark) on Eagle Point south of a small bay
Marked campsite at Eagle Point (within bay)
Platform tent sites
View from outhouse
Classy latrine
I still had another 4.5 miles or more of paddling left to do before reaching Prouty Beach Campground. The wind picked up a little and the shortest distance was paddling through open water. I was pretty tired and ready for a cold adult beverage when I arrived a few hours later.
Prouty Beach has hot showers. The park is managed by the city of Newport, Vt. and there are many recreational fields that are used for programs. In July, a large softball tournament is held. We camped amidst the RVs, but Through-Paddlers can set up near the beach adjacent to the woods. Check in at the entry booth to register.
Portages: 0
Sequentially, Memphremagog would have been the next body of water I would have paddled after 2014's Missisquoi River trip. But, the timing worked out better for me to tackle this lake near the end of this year's trip. It was actually paddled on Day 6 of Year Four, but I'm inserting it here as the logical next section.
We utilized camping at Prouty Beach in Newport where I was able to paddle right to our campsite at the end of the day. Using Sam again for my shuttle, we took the rented kayak over the border (more on that later) and headed to Mansonville with our sites set on eating lunch again this year at Owl's Head Bakery. Alas, it was not to be. Even though it was THURSDAY, the bakery wasn't open. No idea why, no hours were posted, but shelves were stocked, so it appears to still be in operation. We ate at the cafe across the street, where we had spent a rainy afternoon the year before using their free wifi. Food was good, just not the bakery we had been dreaming about.
We drove (yes drove) the Grand Portage under clear blue skies so that I could resume the Trail from Perkins Landing, from the point I had started last year's downstream Missisquoi River trip. Arrived around 12:30 p.m. and had the kayak sprayed by the harbor master for a cool Canadian $10.
Unlike 2011, the water only had some slight chop and I had a light tail wind. I wanted to check out the newer Eagle Point campsites this year, so I headed over to the eastern shore soon after pulling away from the boat launch. It meant I would be need to paddle across an open bay spanning just over two miles, but I had to cross to the east shore line at some point and the crossing was narrowest near Perkin's Landing. What a pleasant surprise paddling on the opposite side of the lake turned out to be! Before reaching the open bay, I paddled along the protected island of the Île-Longue Nature Reserve and its gorgeous undeveloped shorelines. After passing the reserve area, some vintage lake houses pepper the shoreline and points.
 |
| Leaving Perkins Landing in Quebec |
 |
| Heading south on Lake Memphremagog |
 |
| Ile-Longue island shoreline |
 |
| Vintage camp on point prior to two-mile crossing |
Meanwhile, Sam had headed first to Owl's Head to hit a bucket of balls at the golf course before heading back to Newport. I had suggested he just tell the border patrol that he was out for an afternoon of golf rather than explaining the somewhat complicated shuttling details. Instead, the border patrol asked him what time he entered the country and where (same road) and then looked it up. Apparently, we were photographed leaving the U.S. when entering Canada. He ended up explaining why he no longer had a kayak on the roof rack or his wife in the vehicle. Things were starting to look rather suspicious until he went on to say that I was paddling the NFCT. Even though the border station was nowhere near the water, the guard knew all about the Trail because it is on his bucket list. And, he even had a copy of my book. Suspicions evaporated and all was well.
Crossing the border via lake is no mystery. A clearly demarcated border has been hewn into the forest and even crosses the southern tip of Providence Island where the U.S. and Canada meet. Really?
 |
| Canada/U.S. Border |
 |
| Border cut into forest and through the end of Providence Island |
Soon after entering U.S. waters, the signed campsite(s) on Eagle Point appear within a small bay. I took my first break of the afternoon here after paddling a solid three hours in the heavy kayak. This would not be my boat of choice for paddling 12 miles of lake, but you do what you gotta do. Three platforms are in the woods a short distance from the take-out and the site has one of the best looking latrines found along the trail.
 |
| Lake house (landmark) on Eagle Point south of a small bay |
 |
| Marked campsite at Eagle Point (within bay) |
 |
| Platform tent sites |
 |
| View from outhouse |
 |
| Classy latrine |
I still had another 4.5 miles or more of paddling left to do before reaching Prouty Beach Campground. The wind picked up a little and the shortest distance was paddling through open water. I was pretty tired and ready for a cold adult beverage when I arrived a few hours later.
Prouty Beach has hot showers. The park is managed by the city of Newport, Vt. and there are many recreational fields that are used for programs. In July, a large softball tournament is held. We camped amidst the RVs, but Through-Paddlers can set up near the beach adjacent to the woods. Check in at the entry booth to register.
Our Prouty Beach trailer site
 |
| Our Prouty Beach trailer site |
