Sep 28, 2011

Day 44, Aug. 16: Little Brassau Lake to Rockwood, ME

Mileage: 10.5 plus some meandering tacking into headwinds

Weather: Driving rain in the morning, cleared up by afternoon with an awesome sunset

Wildlife: Mink, deer, eagles, loons, geese, ducks, osprey

Portages: 1 (.25 miles?) around Braussau Dam, carried everything
"Beach" area was bigger due to water draw down

Take-out by Braussau Dam

It rained all night. We felt a pop in the middle of the night and thought something had fallen on the tarp--like a big pine cone. The tarp had held up great and I had kept the tent rain fly really taught for shedding water, but apparently I had tightened up the tent too much. One of the aluminum poles broke, an end of a section near the top had ripped along a joint. The tent had stayed up, but was ajar. We have duct tape.

This is the first day that I had to put wet clothes back on. Who doesn't love THAT feeling? Then a decision--to wear or not to wear rain pants. I hadn't put them on yesterday while portaging. Putting them on this morning over my damp pants potentially means two pants will be wet. But no rain pants means I'll be really wet. Packed up under sprinkles and hoped that meant the rain was ending. My body heat was already drying up my pants, so the rain pants went on over them. 

Good thing. It started raining again the minute we got on the water in a "friendly drizzle." Paddled past what seemed to be the actual campsite on an open, grassy point. The site we stayed at last night was definitely better for our tarp tying needs. Watched an osprey dive for fish before heading out on the big water were there was lots of head wind and big waves. Took our time ferrying and tacking and hugging the southern shore. Decided to take shelter on a beach in a cove to wait out the wind where we rigged up the tarp over a fallen tree to keep the rain off and heated up water to make some instant soup and cocoa. We're wet. Watched a mink running among the driftwood to pass the time --- which was about all we could do besides sipping our hot drinks. Apparently neither of us were in the mood to take any pictures as no documentation exists of this wind-imposed "beach break."

Seemed like the wind had died down and set off again after our hour or so. But no. The wind was there to pound us when we rounded the point between the two Brassau lakes. More ferrying into the wind. This was probably the roughest stretch of paddling to date. Headed toward the Poplar Hill for a rest after crossing the widest part of the lake. Betty and her husband were at a boat landing to greet us. Who was Betty? We didn't know, but she was there and said "Hi! I'm Betty!" Ate a power-bar like snack and after our short visit with Betty, we headed southeast toward the dam with an, ahhhh, tailwind. 

Back on the Moose River, we banged our way through a few more rapids before the river broadened, and deepened. Cabins, camps and marina's appeared along both banks. Stopped at the General Store near Rockwood and each ordered the chicken stew and dumplings for $4.99, which we assumed would be in a bowl and tie us over until dinner. It arrived in a dog-dish sized bowl with two ice-cream scoop sized dumplings. Huge! We ate it all. Also couldn't pass up on a raspberry turnover. 

Mt. Kineo seen as we merged from the Moose River

While it had stopped raining, we were still feeling damp and the clouds were still overhead, so we decided to look for a motel or cabin for tonight's accommodations. Paddled right up to the 1940's  or 50's era Rockwood Cabins, across from Mt. Kineo where we got a two-bedroom place with a kitchen, run by Bonnie and Ron, the nicest people. As Bonnie explained: "It isn't the Hyatt, but it is clean." They helped bring our gear up to the cabin, invited us to their group potluck dinner and Ron even fixed our broken tent pole. 

It's suppose to be nice tomorrow, but am setting the alarm for 4:30 to get an early start on the big waters of Moosehead Lake.

Rockwood Cabins

Moosehead Lake



Dinner: Not too much after our chicken stew "snack." Did have a few appetizers at the potluck tonight. And a beer. Those people at the Rockwood Cabins are so nice!