Weather: Hot, humid, early afternoon showers followed by scattered t-storms
Wildlife: Loons, eagles, hawk, heron
Portages: 0
Left camp and continued floating down the beautiful Penobscot River as it flattened and widened approaching Chesuncook Lake, passing old logging-era pile-ons near Boom House. We rounded the point nearest the Boom House campsite and headed toward Graveyard Point so that we could stop in Chesnucook Village for rootbeer and fudge at "The Store." The two Carols we had met on Moosehead Lake told us that they attempted to find "The Store" a few years ago, but hadn't. We followed the path from the boat landing at Graveyard Point that eventually led right toward a cluster of cabins and houses. Jack called off the dog when we rang the big Liberty-like bell to let him know he had customers. Like the BWCA pre-1980's "Rootbeer Lady," he sells homemade rootbeer and fudge and it was a real treat to meet him. I bought four pieces of the fudge (English Toffee, Chocolate and two Maple-Walnut) and immediately devoured three of them.
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| Chatting with Jack in "The Store" |
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| Ice-cold rootbeer |
Jack and his son Johnny make the root beer and fudge. Jack told us that the year round residents number less than 10. He runs everything with a generator. He too has a satellite dish and internet. I’m guessing he was in is 80’s and told us about keeping up with his email.
As we talked, two men walked up to the house carrying large water containers. There were dressed in uniforms; state of Main Land Conservation or something like that. Wardens. We chatted…told them what we were doing and payed them for our stay at “The Pines” campsite the night before. $17.12 for the two of us; non-residents. (I thought I was going to be able to take care of all of our Maine State Campsites in Allagash, but the Penobscot is a different district. )
Kay and these state workers got to exchange shop talk about our respective state budgets. Got back on the water around noon and started heading toward Umbazookus Stream. Storm clouds were blowing in behind us, so we headed over to the Longley Stream campsite where we could quickly pitch the tarp over the tarp pole to wait out any rain. LOVE these Maine "amenities." Longley had two nice tent pad areas and a great firepit. We ate lunch and played cards while waiting out two storms.
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| Here comes the rain again |
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| After the rain - looking northeast from the Longley Stream campsite |
Headed out again in oppressive heat and humidity. Kay's back was giving her some problems today. Stopped at the campsite on Umbazookus Stream East for a break, but I wanted to press on in order to avoid another potential portage (paddling up the north end of Umbazookus Stream after the bridge) the same day as tomorrow's Mud Carry. It also was a Friday night and the camp site had road access and I thought it could be a potential weekend party site.
Side note: Maine continues to be virtually litter-free, even where there is road access.
The water was high enough to mostly paddle upstream that last mile connecting to Umbazookus Lake, but there were a few places where we had to get out and drag or track over low spots. The skies were open, but big thunderheads were approaching. We were making good time until we stopped to chat with five guys who were on their way out from Mud Lake and an Allagash Lake loop trip. Had a nice visit about the Mud Carry, but the gathering clouds started towering over us. We both were anxious to head on--they to the Longley Stream site and we on to the site shown on the south east shore of Umbazookus Lake ahead. The guys warned us we that they had cruised over there to check it out, but couldn't locate it. We had to carry over one downed tree and lift over a beaver dam before punching through the open, old Umbazookus dam.
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| Umbazookus Dam |
The thunder was really starting to roll and we hurried along the southern shore looking for the site. The only potential camping area was an older road just north of the dam, but not in the place where we thought the site should be. It was flat enough. Out of six nights so far, Kay has camped at only one official site that we are sure of since she started on her leg with me. Rigged up the tarp among some weak trees and set the tent up in a hurry. The pole is still holding, but I don't want to test it on a big storm. Made a quick dinner. Mosquitos joined us. Got the dishes done and then I wanted to wash off the humidity, sunscreen and DEET before the storm hit. (I know, seems like the storm was threatening us for quite some time.) The weather WAS weird. Storms were rolling around us the entire time, but held off long enough to get settled. I made a mad, naked dash to the sandy shallows enveloped by an orange/grey sky and flashes of lightning and took a quick, exhilarating dip in the clear water. Rain started falling and I jumped back into the tent as the storm finally broke.
Am sure we are the only people on this lake tonight.
Dinner: Tuna steaks with basmati rice
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| Making due with a spot for the night on Umbazookus Lake |
