Jul 30, 2011

Day 24, July 27: Up the Ammonoosuc to Stark

Mileage: 7 miles--all upstream

Weather: Overcast, seemed to threaten to rain, but only a few sprinkles on and off in the a.m. Pleasant in the afternoon.

Portages: Does tracking count?

Wildlife: Mergansers, blue herons, Canadian geese, river rocks

Started heading upriver again before mist had entirely burned off. Noticed tons of glass all over the gravel bar and amazed we didn't accidentally set up the tent on anything. Had to get out a lot around all the gravel bars/islands all the way to the Emerson Rd. bridge. Rocks were very slippery. Took a rest in someone's backyard firepit area where two inviting white chairs and a picnic table beckoned us. Took out the tarp preparing for another downpour that never materialized. Ate a bag of pistachios and then got back on the water. More ins and outs. Took another break at the Emerson Rd bridge and scouted out the river ahead. We probably had spent close to 3 or 4 hours going only 2 to 3 miles. My ankles actually hurt from all the tracking. Linda took a nice slam to the shin for the team. Figured we had another 4 miles and the rest of the day and Linda was game to continue. Am I glad we didn't bail and try to walk the road instead. The section just around the bend after the bridge was an absolute delight. I think it ranks as my favorite river section to date. Maybe it was because we had to struggle so much to get there, but the cedar-lined banks and the deep, sandy river bottom made it feel like a very northern lake. Paddled at least 2 miles with no need to get out of the canoe. Am really glad we didn't miss this section. Thought we might be home free, but then more low areas, more drops requiring tracking and/or dragging--maybe for the last 1.5 - 2 miles.



Tracking up the Upper Ammo
This part of the river was low, but still able to be paddled

Glad we hadn't skipped this section 
Deep, beautiful water
More puzzling rif raf (?) along the shore


Arrived in Stark around 5:30 with the intention of staying at the Stark Village Inn, even though we hadn't made reservations. Afterall it was a Wednesday night...

Arriving in Stark at the end of a long day

No one was there when we arrived, but we unloaded the canoe, set up the tent to dry and made dinner on the back yard. At 7:30 pm, Nancy, the proprietor arrived from a few hours of kayaking. We had just missed her as we had struggled up the river. We were able to get rooms--more trail magic--she had had a cancellation that day, otherwise she had been booked! Glad to be able to get a shower and sleep in a bed tonight. Linda was a really good sport about the day today.

Dinner: Cheese, sausage w/crackers, cream of mushroom soup, pesto pasta (we were REALLY hungry today.)